Dead Boy Direct
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Another Estes drunk in the middle of the thin crux...
This route lies in the gully left of Osiris, the first large gully on the left side of the book. The route is the next one left of Living Dead. The route is a long, finger crack that starts in a left facing dihedral and goes for a full 150 feet up to some rap anchors on top of the second pitch of Living Dead. A variation called Dead Boy (.10b) takes a thin dicey RP protected traverse right directly to the anchors on Living Dead. This is a beautiful sustained finger crack in good rock. The first 100 feet are about 5.9 and lead up to a difficult 5.11 move in a bulge. After this move 30 feet of solid 5.11 finger jamming make for a pumpy lead up and right to join up with Living Dead's second pitch crux (.10a). A beautiful and worthwhile pitch that eats pro and stays in the shade for most of the day.
Many small to medium sized stoppers and TCUs the crux is thirty feet long and requires a substantial amount of gear in this range.
|Comments on Dead Boy Direct
|By Malcolm Daly|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 6, 2001
Patrick, thanks for submitting this, and it's flattering that you call Dead Boy a variation. Dead Boy was put up a few months earlier than DBD. We were trying to do the second ascent, and I was too stupid to see where it traversed right. Luckily, I had the gear for it.
|By Matt Burns|
Feb 5, 2004
It's easy to TR this one by leading the 10b to the left (Dead Boy?). There are good anchors at the top. This would be an excellent project route for someone trying to start leading solid 11s. Control the pump, and focus on your feet at the top. Great route.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Feb 10, 2004
Matt- you are mistaken. The route you are thinking of is Living Dead. Dead Boy Direct continues past the traverse on Dead Boy and is certainly not a good lead for someone breaking into 11s.
|By david goldstein|
Jul 9, 2004
Note: Contrary to the Gillett guide, a rap with a single 60m rope just gets you to the ground from the ASCA bolts at the end of the pitch.
Also, contrary to the opinion of most who've done this route, I found the hard move at the bulge to be a distinct crux and that the "enduro section had good feet which made it not too pumpy at all.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 11, 2004
See Road Kill for a photo of this and nearby routes.
|By Bob Rotert|
Oct 9, 2005
This is another "Malcolm Daly "Lumpy ridge classic!! This is a great route!! Can't believe I've waited till I am "almost" to old, fat, and weak to climb it. For some beta, there is small but good pro leading up to the crux bulge. Can be a little strenous getting in. I remember using a blue TCU which seemed very good before executing what I thought was the crux. They say it's not good to visualize falling but, the fall would be very clean if taken. The most difficult technical move is a layback with the left toe on a small edge which enables getting a good finger lock high and then a hand jam at the bulge. This part is strenuous and the clock is ticking, for the old and weak, placing pro. The hand jam is also a bit painful, for the meek, and one might want to tape for it. I remember wishing I had. Once you get your feet above the bulge and in the hand jam, at the bulge, you can rest a little bit. But there are still some hard moves to go considering the pump factor. One needs to focus on weighting the feet and relaxing your grip as much as possible at this point as the wall is less then vertical and you can recoup some strength for the last few of moves up the crack. I did a face traverse right and then some 5.9 climbing leads the last 20 ft to the belay. What a great trad lead and pitch!!
One 60 meter rope does get you to the ground from the belay bolts.
|By Rob Kepley|
Apr 30, 2008
Excellent for sure! The start is quite tricky but soon eases up. Get ready for some strenous laybacking with poor feet up top. Protects really well.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Jun 24, 2008
Nice send Rob, especially since it started to rain and hail as you hit the crux section. I had to put on my sunglasses to keep from getting pelted in the eye.
The crux takes some serious body tension, since the feet are horrible. When you hit the handjam, make sure you sandbag your partner by plugging the key finger lock with gear. :)