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Dead Bird Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 399
Submitted By: Steve R. on Feb 5, 2009
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Dead Bird Crack is a great little trad climb that starts at the base of Fly By but instead of going up the crack it traverses across left towards a roof. Low angle traverse is thin and protected only by a small nut placement (extend!). Once in the roof there are plenty of options for small to medium cams but make sure to extend your pieces or you'll end up with crazy rope drag. The moves out of the roof are pumpy but keep moving and you'll find solid stances ahead. Continue to follow the obvious features up and left.

At one point you may think, "do I pull over this bomber bulge, clip the bolt and climb straight up to the anchor or do I keep following the crack up/left?" If this is tempting, be aware that this is the 5.10 variation. For the 5.9 finish keep following the crack left, past a piton and run out some 5.6 at the end to a nice happy set of bolt anchors, climber's right. Here you can comfortably belay your partner while seated in a little two-butt sized pocket in the rock. The comfort comes in handy when (s)he yells "TAKE!" after missing the first attempt at the crux you kissed your cams before pumping through.


Middle of Discovery Wall. Start is same as Fly By


small to 2" maybe 3", one fixed piton, two bolt anchor at top

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