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 ADVANCED
(03) Bivi Wall/Swallow Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
D.D.M. S 
Hookymaster General S,TR 
Muy Enfermo S,TR 
My Three Girls [M3G] S,TR 
Stuck in Puberty S 

D.D.M. 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Michael LaPlante
Page Views: 141
Submitted By: Alexander Nees on Apr 24, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: A good rest after the initial pumpy lower section.

Description 

An excellent, sustained lead. Climb the juggy, overhung right side of the prominent arete. The rock is good, the clipping stances are good, the falls are clean... just pull until you pop. This climb gets less traffic than it otherwise might because it must be led: you cannot reach the anchors from the clifftop.

Location 

Look for the prominent, steep arete at the left (west) end of the Bivi wall. Rap off this one: you won't want to have to get your slings back if you lower off.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The anchor is pretty far back from the edge: bring long slings if you want to TR after leading it.


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