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D&D 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Locker, Matt Clark, Karen Goetz, and Susan B (Not Anthony!)
New Route: Yes
Season: all
Page Views: 373
Submitted By: Locker on Jul 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

This is a fun route. Pitch one is well bolted. Pitch two does have a bit of a run out between two and three to the top.

The first pitch is obvious. The second pitch is maybe not so much. From the anchors at pitch one, move right past two bolts, then aim left and up (with the bush on the right) using a flake that is a bit hollow (don't yank on that one! LOL!) into some LOOSE shit, short run out to the "retro'd" bolt (not by me, but I had no problem with it).

Location 

This route is located on the right side of the formation, starting at the tree.

You can either rap the two pitches (60m rope or longer) or walk off to the climber's right. (This can be a bit iffy if covered in snow.)

Protection 

Six or seven quickdraws.

There are anchors on top (and of course at the end of the first pitch).

Consider knotting the ends when rapping pitch one (60m).


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By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Aug 12, 2012

FYI...

In the new South Platte guidebook (Jason Haas'), page 147 it has the route "D&D" as having seven bolts on pitch one. Well, it's six now as I "Chopped" the last one right below the anchors because it really was overkill due to the easier slabbing up there.

Careful for loose crap flying on pitch two.

POISON IVY present at the base.
By teece303
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Apr 12, 2013

This is a great, fun line. I need to get back there and lead this thing. The start is hard.
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Apr 28, 2013

Bottom moves are through a short, ledgy section with some friable rock. Second pitch heads for the 2 obvious bolts about 20 feet out and then straight up through some more friable rock to top out on the blunt arete with another 2 bolt anchor. All in all a fun route with a few more bolts than typical SPlatte slab route.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Sep 25, 2013

"Second pitch heads for the 2 obvious bolts"

The second pitch originally had only two bolts. Matt Clark felt it was too run out and a third was added on the second ascent. It's on the left side towards the edge, just through the two bushes.