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 ADVANCED
Bolt Slab
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Chimney Route 
Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest 
Dazed and Refused 
Double Jam 
Meadow Muffin 
Sky Hook 
Two to Tango 
Two-Nut Muffin 

Dazed and Refused 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FFA: Jeff Pedersen (Yo Yo Style) FFA to upper anchors: Bart Dahnke
Page Views: 531
Submitted By: Erik S. Gillis on Oct 11, 2009
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Description 

Awesome route. Fight through the first 15-20 feet of hard overhanging finger locks. Pro during this section is important because if not done properly a ground fall is possible. After the first section enjoy some easy, but overhanging, face climbing until you get to the anchors. It is possible to continue from there, or so i have heard, at 5-10a with gear. I have not tried it yet.


Location 

The first crack on the north facing side of bolt slab when you come around the corner from Meadow Muffin.


Protection 

a set of C3s, small to medium stoppers, and i used one orange metolius master cam. Also you will need one draw for the pin at the top



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By Erik S. Gillis
Oct 13, 2009

One more quick important note Darren wanted me to mention, the far left arete is off for anything. Especially to place gear, gear is probably the hardest part about this route.