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Dazed and Confused S 

Dazed and Confused 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 225', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: W. Peterson C. Jirka
Season: Summer, Spring, Fall
Page Views: 215
Submitted By: Jeremy Joseph on Sep 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

The first pitch is good. It is 155 feet of 10c climbing with good protection. The second pitch is 11a that is really runout! I wouldn't recommend this pitch.

Location 

This is on Printer Boy ledge.

Protection 

Bolts. You need 19 quickdraws for 10c pitch.


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By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From: Aspen, CO
Oct 15, 2012

The 10c pitch on this route is fantastic. I remember a short crux about 2 or 3 bolts up from Printer Boy ledge and then fun climbing with good rests that seems to go on forever! I feel that the second, 11a, pitch should be done to finish on top of Monitor Rock. It's a 1-move wonder slab crux. Once you clip the bolt after the crux wander up and left towards the large dihedral through unprotected terrain. Although scary, the climbing is only 5.6 or 5.7 and if you've made it this far (climbed 10a, 11b, 10c, 11a pitches) you should have no problems with the climbing. Walk off or rap back down the route.
By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Jun 15, 2013

Classic climbing all the way to the top.