Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Space Your Face Wall
Select Route:
Dazed and Confused S 

Dazed and Confused 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 225', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: W. Peterson C. Jirka
Season: Summer, Spring, Fall
Page Views: 317
Submitted By: Jeremy Joseph on Sep 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

The first pitch is good. It is 155 feet of 10c climbing with good protection. The second pitch is 11a that is really runout! I wouldn't recommend this pitch.

Location 

This is on Printer Boy ledge.

Protection 

Bolts. You need 19 quickdraws for 10c pitch.


Comments on Dazed and Confused Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From: Aspen, CO
Oct 15, 2012

The 10c pitch on this route is fantastic. I remember a short crux about 2 or 3 bolts up from Printer Boy ledge and then fun climbing with good rests that seems to go on forever! I feel that the second, 11a, pitch should be done to finish on top of Monitor Rock. It's a 1-move wonder slab crux. Once you clip the bolt after the crux wander up and left towards the large dihedral through unprotected terrain. Although scary, the climbing is only 5.6 or 5.7 and if you've made it this far (climbed 10a, 11b, 10c, 11a pitches) you should have no problems with the climbing. Walk off or rap back down the route.
By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Jun 15, 2013

Classic climbing all the way to the top.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jul 25, 2015

We rapped this route with a single 80m. The first rap took almost the whole rope, and the second rap, onto the Printer Boy Ledge, involved rapping off the ends while barely touching down on to the ledge. So, you can do it, but just be aware that it isn't ideal. Two more raps from Printer Boy Ledge were easily done after that.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!