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 ADVANCED
Upper Gibraltar
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Route Runs Through It S 
Crescent Direct, The T 
Crescent, The T 
Dazed and Confused S 
Gibbon, The S 
Slacker T 
Soul, The S 
Triple Overhang T 

Dazed and Confused 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: B. Culver, J. Buhl, M. Brown, S. Edwards, 1993
Page Views: 772
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 5, 2006

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Just another perfect day in paradise. Mike Morley...

Description 

Dazed and Confused is the first bolted line encountered as you approach the crag from the Toxic Waste Wall (far left). The route is the longest one on the wall, at around 120'.

Start just right of a gully, and stay on the vertical, crimpy face past 3 or 4 bolts for full value. Bailing off left into the gully drops the difficulty down to 5.8. Move up and left, passing a few more bolts, to gain a ledge. Here's where a little gear comes in handy, as otherwise you'll have to make an unprotected couple of moves right before being able to clip the next bolt. A fall here wouldn't be advised. Use of a long sling off the ledge eases rope drag. Steep, featured face climbing past a few more bolts to the top.

Be extremely careful lowering if using less than a 70m rope!


Protection 

Bolts, a couple TCUs, and at least one long sling.



Photos of Dazed and Confused Slideshow Add Photo
A little higher up Dazed and Confused on a gorgeous Santa Barbara day.
A little higher up Dazed and Confused on a gorgeou...
Comments on Dazed and Confused Add Comment
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By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 22, 2008

Staying directly on the bolt line and slightly right here and there (not using the left edge holds) definitely raises the grade several ticks.

By Richard Shore
May 25, 2011

Of the three 5.10's on this crag, this one seems to be the most sustained and pumpy. I followed the bolt line closely, and it indeed seemed harder.

By Lars Hedin
Jan 10, 2013

the description suggests being careful if usig "less than" a 70m. I would suggest being extremely careful even with a 70m and im not sure a 60 would get you anywheere close. I moved over and rapped off the Route Runs Through It anchors and just made it to the higher ground at the base of that route. Also, beware of rockfall here. Your belayer should helmet up for this one.

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Jan 12, 2014

We originally placed a rap anchor on the ledge. Someone (a local who hated paying for bolts/hangers and would borrow old hardware off anything short of stripping a route that was popular) pilfered the belay. I found the anchor on one of his routes later. I would have replaced them, because the ledge is a spectacular belay, but I wasn't guiding anymore and you can both belay on the ledge with gear and rap off of another route. I don't think anyone would care if that belay was replaced for convenience (and safety) if that crag is getting enough traffic that you don't always have it to yourself.