Dazed and Confused 5.10b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | B. Culver, J. Buhl, M. Brown, S. Edwards, 1993 |
| Submitted By: | M.Morley on Feb 5, 2006 |
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Just another perfect day in paradise. Mike Morley...
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Description Dazed and Confused is the first bolted line encountered as you approach the crag from the Toxic Waste Wall (far left). The route is the longest one on the wall, at around 120'.
Start just right of a gully, and stay on the vertical, crimpy face past 3 or 4 bolts for full value. Bailing off left into the gully drops the difficulty down to 5.8. Move up and left, passing a few more bolts, to gain a ledge. Here's where a little gear comes in handy, as otherwise you'll have to make an unprotected couple of moves right before being able to clip the next bolt. A fall here wouldn't be advised. Use of a long sling off the ledge eases rope drag. Steep, featured face climbing past a few more bolts to the top.
Be extremely careful lowering if using less than a 70m rope!
Protection Bolts, a couple TCUs, and at least one long sling.
A little higher up Dazed and Confused on a gorgeou...
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| Comments on Dazed and Confused |
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By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 22, 2008
| Staying directly on the bolt line and slightly right here and there (not using the left edge holds) definitely raises the grade several ticks. |
By Richard Shore
May 25, 2011
| Of the three 5.10's on this crag, this one seems to be the most sustained and pumpy. I followed the bolt line closely, and it indeed seemed harder. |
By Lars Hedin
Jan 10, 2013
| the description suggests being careful if usig "less than" a 70m. I would suggest being extremely careful even with a 70m and im not sure a 60 would get you anywheere close. I moved over and rapped off the Route Runs Through It anchors and just made it to the higher ground at the base of that route. Also, beware of rockfall here. Your belayer should helmet up for this one. |
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