Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Steve Grossman, Dave Baker, Rich Thompson 1973
Page Views: 18,820 total · 85/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 4, 2006 · Updates
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

Another Rockfellow classic. This is located on End Pinnacle on the west side of the area. Approach by skirting around the formation to the right from the approach. The climb is the first crack to the left of the large chimney separating End Pinnacle from the rest of the formation.

Pitch 1: Start up a groove to the left of the chimney, clip a bolt, and then either pendulum over to the main crack or free climb at 5.10. Once in the main crack, chimney up, and then use chickenheads to reach a bolted belay. The rest of the route is 5.8+ or so. The chimney is fairly secure but not really protectable - you might feel this is a bit R-rated. (140', 5.8 A0 or 5.10b if free climbed)

Pitch 2: Follow an excellent fist sized crack up until it ends at a hanging belay stance (120', 5.8+)

Pitch 3: Step directly left to a chicken head tie off, head up and right past three bolts to a welcome ledge (first non-hanging belay!). No other gear on this pitch  (100', 5.8+R)

Pitch 4: Up past a couple of bolts to the summit. The start is pretty runout to the first bolt 25' up.

Descent: Rappel Magnus Veritas (two ropes)

Alternatively: Start from a pine tree at the east side of the summit, overlooking the fissure separating EP from the main dome. Two double rope raps take you into the big chimney. You need to go up through a hole to find the last rap station that takes you to the bottom on the side opposite the climb. This is all pretty hazy for me so be careful!

Protection Suggest change

Recommended: light rack of stoppers, 1x  0.2-0.3, 2x 0.4 - #4

Optional: #6 or larger for P1, 1 extra #3 and 1-2 additional #4's would make P2 safer

Photos

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