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Animal World
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Aardvark T,TR 
Animal Instinct S 
Animal Magnetism S 
Animal Riots Activist S 
Animation aka Jaycene's Dance S 
Automatic Choke T,TR 
Balance, The T,S 
Beast Food Left S 
Beast Food Right S 
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 
Blockhead S 
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 
Closer To God S 
Cold Snap T 
Crack Corner T 
Cujo Tranquilizer S 
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 
Dihedral T,TR 
Evolution Revolution S 
Familiar Strangers T 
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 
Fifth Destiny, The S 
Fifth World, The T,S 
Free Willie S 
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Global Gorilla S 
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Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 
Isn't Life Strange S 
Joint Venture S 
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 
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Lovely to See You T,S 
Melancholy Man S 
New Beginnings S 
Nice To Be Here S 
Old Dihedral T 
Piles of Trials S 
Pit Bull Prowser S 
Reversal Roof S 
Ride My See-saw S 
Split Personality S 
Strange Times T,S 
Sundog S 
Talking Out Of Turn S 
Threshold Of A Dream S 
Triple Play T 
Tuesday Afternoon S 
Unfamiliar Strangers S 
We Don't Do Crack T 
Wine and Roses T 

Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand
Page Views: 6,280
Submitted By: Jake Wyatt on Apr 26, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (142)
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Sean K. making it look easy.

Seasonal Raptor Closure - Lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

It's pretty much a one-move-wonder, but this 12a is fun anyways. 20 feet of easy climbing leads to 2 seams that offer a fun sequence of sidepulls and foot smears. The roof above the crux pulls out onto a slab that puts the anchors within reach.

Protection 

Draws for 6 bolts, a fixed nut, and a 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed Slideshow Add Photo
Mid-crux.
Mid-crux.
Post crux.
Post crux.
Starting the crux.
Starting the crux.
David enjoying the crux moves.
David enjoying the crux moves.
BETA PHOTO

Comments on Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 28, 2015
By Chris Archer
Oct 27, 2003
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Terrific route involving a semi hidden hold at the crux. I thought Bob called it "Days of Future Passed."
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Oct 27, 2003

Actually I wanted to call it "Days of Future Past" after a Moody Blues song. This was around the same time we did "Piles of Trials" which was from a Moody Blues refrain: Face Piles of Trials with Smiles. This was because my ACL exploded at the base of the climb and I had to come out of the hospital for the FA. For historical information, FA 9 Feb 1996.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 26, 2004

I thought the crux on this was desperate and thin. The climbing above and below was more fun. Good route. Isn't there a piece of fixed gear on this thing?
By SirVato
From: Boulder
Jun 7, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

This was a pretty sweet route!! A good candidate for a 1st lead @ the grade. I don't really down grade routes but. . . I've had harder times on a few 11+s than I did with this. What do I know this was my first 12 lead. The moves are awesome though!!

GEAR ALERT- as of 6-6-06 almost EVERY bolt was a spinner!! I'll try to get back for the red point this week so, while I'm there I'll wrench on those bolts.
Also, the fixed nut is not too good looking - the cable has separated from the nut itself (more like a cable wrapped around chock). The moves to the next bolt aren't too hard or far.
By Chris O'Connor
From: boulder, co
Sep 11, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Fun but short crux. Definitely easier than Feeding The Beast right around the corner.
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 15, 2007

The fixed nut is questionable. Bring some small stoppers or a small cam to back this up if you are worried clipping the bolt at the crux. I couldn't figure out how to transfer my weight onto the hold at the bolt at the crux move. After that you are pretty much done.
By David A. Turner
Apr 22, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Gear alert. The fixed nut is missing. As we had no gear besides quickdraws with us, and unwilling to commit without that bit of gear, we traversed from the top of Free Willie, to the anchors on Days, hung the draws, including extended slings off the crux bolt.
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Apr 22, 2008

I had noticed the nut was missing yesterday. I just replaced it with a new one about 2 months ago because the one that had been there since we put the route in looked real bad. I guess I did not smash it in hard enough. Too bad people have to steal things. Maybe we will put another bolt in there.
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Apr 24, 2008

We placed a bolt where the fixed nut had historically been.
Also replaced the bolt below this one as it was a spinner that could not be tightened.
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Oct 20, 2008

This is a fun route, there are at least half a dozen sequences for the crux section.
By chipacles
Sep 1, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Don't know why, but I couldn't figure the crux out. Then watched my girlfriend do it. Went back up and sent it, no problem. Just gotta find the right sequence through the crux.

Pretty fun stuff.
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 21, 2010

I really enjoy this route. There are some 5.10 moves getting to the crux. The crux is sequency and challenging, and then there is a nice bold overhanging section to the anchors.

Super beta: the crux comes after clipping bolt 5, starting from the iron cross position. The next placement of the right foot is key--don't put it on the good hold, but rather on a poorer hold right below. Now cross the left foot through and put it on the good foothold, laybacking against the right hand. Position the left hand high in the crack, get the right foot on the good edge up and to the right, and crank a Gaston with the left hand, standing high and reaching for the obvious chalked horn right of bolt 6. Don't bother with any intermediates for the right hand--just go straight to the horn.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 27, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

It feels really difficult until you figure out the move. Then its relatively easy. So like 12+ OS, 11+ RP.
By germsauce
Apr 14, 2012

Is the chalky rail system about 3-4 feet left of the bolts (and the crack just left of the bolt line) on, or are you only supposed to use the thin crack just next to the bolts? I either really lucked out with the sequence or used a whole slew of holds that weren't on.
By Dave Alie
From: Golden, CO
Mar 17, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Likely easier for folks with bigger hands; I got a reasonable lock at the crux which made the moves easier than for those who have to hold a gaston. Either way, the business is so short, I'm not sure it earns the 12-.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 9, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I'm going to give my opinion, and I may come off as a MP mean man, but I'm just going to lay out what I think. I think this route is really in the 11b/c region. I think that Reefer Madness has a similar crux in Clear Creek. This may be a little harder because you have to figure it out, but it is not bad at all. I think the person that put 12+ onsight is a little off. This thing is totally onsight-able, and I have seen friends do that very easily. Try Animal Riots Activist right around the corner or Wet Dream at Wall of '90's or Hot Beach at Shelf if you want some comparisons for this to 12a's! I would even say that Strange Science (11d) and The Devil (11d), both at Avalon, are harder than this line! That's just my opinion...take it or leave it!
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Feb 17, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Hey Train4life, I will respectfully disagree with you. Could have been my personal experience with the climb, but the one move on this merits the 12a rating in my opinion. My beta involved a horrible left foot and a left hand cross to a small crystal crimp that you needed to lean in on to reach a good right hand. For me, when I compare this sequence to every other classic 12- in Boulder Canyon, it holds its grade. I'm comparing to routes like Empire of the Fenceless, Lucky Strikes, The Good The Bad and The Jacked, Prince of Thieves.
Maybe I'm missing something super obvious at the crux, not sure. This climb took me ten tries when I was consistently climbing 12 - on my second go. Maybe it's 5.11 but my complete, anti-style, nemesis route.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 21, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Jack Sparrow, I appreciate your comment, very respectable. I will respectfully disagree with your disagreement. I think you should try Animal Riots Activist and some solid 12a's like the ones I mentioned and see if this meets up with it. Try Tits Up at Shelf for a 12b comparison or The Constant Gardner or Joy Ride 12b for comparisons. I thought Empire was a bit soft for 12a, since it basically has one move even relatively close to 12a.
By A-Train
Feb 22, 2015

Train4Life, please tell me you were joking when you said, "this is a Yosemite move right here." Debating whether a route is 5.11 or 12- is silly enough (is there really a difference?), but calling something a "Yosemite move" is just too good!
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Feb 24, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

So I've redpointed Wet Dream, Animal Riots Activist, The Devil, and Strange Science. I still think all those routes were easier for me as they took me between 2 and 5 tries, compared to ten on this. Been on constant Gardner, it feels harder than this, same with Joy Ride. It's probably not 12b, but I don't think it's 5.11 on the Boulder Canyon grading scale. Like I said, could just be a nemesis route for me, but I have a hard time taking 11b/c. Regardless of the grade, it's a great piece of stone with quality climbing the whole way.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 28, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

That is so interesting, Jack Sparrow, I would love to see how you climb this! I'm honestly really curious now. I thought every route you just named were grades harder, actually the route to the right of DofFP, Threshold of a Dream, was harder...interesting how one can see a route so differently per climber. Well, hope to see you around someday, Jack Sparrow!
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