2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
It's pretty much a one-move-wonder, but this 12a is fun anyways. 20 feet of easy climbing leads to 2 seams that offer a fun sequence of sidepulls and foot smears. The roof above the crux pulls out onto a slab that puts the anchors within reach.
Draws for 6 bolts, a fixed nut, and a 2 bolt anchor.
Photos of Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed Slideshow
Actually I wanted to call it "Days of Future Past" after a Moody Blues song. This was around the same time we did "Piles of Trials" which was from a Moody Blues refrain: Face Piles of Trials with Smiles. This was because my ACL exploded at the base of the climb and I had to come out of the hospital for the FA. For historical information, FA 9 Feb 1996.
I thought the crux on this was desperate and thin. The climbing above and below was more fun. Good route. Isn't there a piece of fixed gear on this thing?
By SirVato From: Boulder Jun 7, 2006 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
This was a pretty sweet route!! A good candidate for a 1st lead @ the grade. I don't really down grade routes but. . . I've had harder times on a few 11+s than I did with this. What do I know this was my first 12 lead. The moves are awesome though!!
GEAR ALERT- as of 6-6-06 almost EVERY bolt was a spinner!! I'll try to get back for the red point this week so, while I'm there I'll wrench on those bolts. Also, the fixed nut is not too good looking - the cable has separated from the nut itself (more like a cable wrapped around chock). The moves to the next bolt aren't too hard or far.
By Chris O'Connor From: bouldertown, co Sep 11, 2006 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
Fun but short crux. Definitely easier than Feeding The Beast right around the corner.
The fixed nut is questionable. Bring some small stoppers or a small cam to back this up if you are worried clipping the bolt at the crux. I couldn't figure out how to transfer my weight onto the hold at the bolt at the crux move. After that you are pretty much done.
Gear alert. The fixed nut is missing. As we had no gear besides quickdraws with us, and unwilling to commit without that bit of gear, we traversed from the top of Free Willie, to the anchors on Days, hung the draws, including extended slings off the crux bolt.
I had noticed the nut was missing yesterday. I just replaced it with a new one about 2 months ago because the one that had been there since we put the route in looked real bad. I guess I did not smash it in hard enough. Too bad people have to steal things. Maybe we will put another bolt in there.
I really enjoy this route. There are some 5.10 moves getting to the crux. The crux is sequency and challenging, and then there is a nice bold overhanging section to the anchors.
Super beta: the crux comes after clipping bolt 5, starting from the iron cross position. The next placement of the right foot is key--don't put it on the good hold, but rather on a poorer hold right below. Now cross the left foot through and put it on the good foothold, laybacking against the right hand. Position the left hand high in the crack, get the right foot on the good edge up and to the right, and crank a Gaston with the left hand, standing high and reaching for the obvious chalked horn right of bolt 6. Don't bother with any intermediates for the right hand--just go straight to the horn.
By Phil Lauffen From: The Bubble May 27, 2011 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
It feels really difficult until you figure out the move. Then its relatively easy. So like 12+ OS, 11+ RP.
Is the chalky rail system about 3-4 feet left of the bolts (and the crack just left of the bolt line) on, or are you only supposed to use the thin crack just next to the bolts? I either really lucked out with the sequence or used a whole slew of holds that weren't on.
By Dave Alie From: Golden, CO Mar 17, 2014 rating: 5.11c/d7a24VIII25E4 6a
Likely easier for folks with bigger hands; I got a reasonable lock at the crux which made the moves easier than for those who have to hold a gaston. Either way, the business is so short, I'm not sure it earns the 12-.