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Dam Fine Cracks T 
Damned if You Do  S 
Damned if You Don't S 
Day as Night S 
Fall Equinox S 
Shale for Sale T 

Day as Night 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: James Garrett 2002
Page Views: 3,468
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jan 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (64)
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Kim Hall leading this climb on trad gear. Route h...

Description 

This starts in the corner just right of Fall Equinox. It continues onto the arete, and climbs this to the rock-filled ledge. It then switches to a face and works this to the anchors. Fun moves on this climb.

Protection 

2 bolts for the anchors, plus 9 draws. I also used a medium nut to protect the initial moves. Rappel off, but beware of the ledge at 2/3's height, as it contains numerous loose rocks. They WILL fall.


Photos of Day as Night Slideshow Add Photo
Chris leading Day as Night, 5.10a
Chris leading Day as Night, 5.10a
Enjoying the only crack move on the route.
Enjoying the only crack move on the route.
Jesse leading Day as Night, 5.10a
Jesse leading Day as Night, 5.10a
James leading Day as Night 5.10a
James leading Day as Night 5.10a

Comments on Day as Night Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 13, 2013
By Nathan Fisher
Apr 23, 2004

9 bolts on the route.
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 7, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Interesting route that will keep cleaning up. Easiest way through the upper section is not obvious and the route is 5.9 if that is found. Could easily have been a trad route with maybe one or two bolts to supplement.
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 17, 2005

This route was first climbed and drilled by James Garrett in the Fall of 2002 a day after Fall Equinox.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 5, 2005

Andrew Gram,You must be a very good trad climber. If you think the route has unnecessary bolts, I suggest you not bother clipping them. Carry your cams and nuts and place those, instead.
By tenesmus
Jun 22, 2006

Just did this and Andrew is right. loads of easy gear with great stems that make it easy to place. It makes nice a 5.9 gear route - especially if you use the upper crack where the best moves on the route are. Its always surprising to see chalked up grovelly chimney next to an unchalked splitter jug crack.
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 31, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Again, I just did this route after a long hiatus. I agree that the route totally can go with gear (and maybe there would be a short section after the initial crack that has tricky gear or a bit runout--but who cares, the holds and stances are bomber (bomber does not equal solid quality rock, it means HUGE)). And you can camp on the ledge.

The crack moves up high are the best on the route but watch out, the crack is quite sharp. If you don't do crack, then you can grovel a bit in the chimney to the left.

This one is also a bit contrived as the natural line really is to the right in the crack, but we did the arete too and its alright/harder.

I do crack.
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Jul 20, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Looks like a new bolt was added for the top ledge crack area... Why not fix the top anchors instead of add that bolt? Anyone? whats the deal with the super offset anchor bolts right on top of each other with the spiderweb of chains and locking biners?
By Ross Downard
Apr 26, 2008

its a shame to see bolts next to perfectly good crack. would be a much better climb left to its natural state. If i am throwing jams, i should be throwing gear as well.
By Scott Teusc
Nov 9, 2008

The crack and the arete are two different routes that meet up at the first ledge, and they should be protected differently IMO. I watched some guy fall onto the boulder to the left of the arete with his ribs breaking the fall while trying to hit the first bolt from the crack. First bolt is easy to reach from the arete but the crack eats up small gear allowing you to skip the first three bolts. I got a small nut down low and then a couple of smaller cams up higher (0.4-1). and used the bolts for the rest.
By Donovan
From: West Jordan, Utah
Mar 4, 2009

Fun climb. Belayers beware! There is a lot of loose slate near the chains. Without too much effort I sent one or two nice sized pieces in the direction of the guys below.
By Brian in SLC
May 29, 2009

I haven't seen the anchor up close, but, could it be that the quicklink was added so the glue-in and chain wouldn't get grooved out and need to be replaced? Maybe what's needed is two quick links with a rappel ring on the end of each?

I saw folks TRing it a couple of nights ago. All too common that folks go directly off the anchor...
By Michael Buchanan
Oct 23, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

After climbing Fowl Play (on Bumblebee) this does not seem like a 5.9. Jugs, not overhanging (a small bulge between bomber rests) and pretty chill. Fun route though!
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Jun 23, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This climb has everything. A nice crack with some opportunities to practice jamming, nice face climbing, a jug-haul over a small bulge, an off-width "chimney" at the top. It is a really fun varied climb. The belay area is wonderful, plenty of room and great for families.
By Michael Buchanan
Aug 17, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Lead w/ gear earlier this year. Gear: couple of hands and thin hands, couple of finger sizes, pink tricam (of course!), maybe some TCUs.
By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
May 3, 2011

did this one today. the only way i see it being 10a is if you do the finger crack about 2/3 of the way up just right and around the corner of the bolts. it is awesome with great finger locks and good gear. i placed a .5 and a .4 camalot I think. Looking back i should've just used gear the whole way. Most of the bolts aren't really necessary in my mind.
By Mark Dexheimer
From: Midvale, UT
Oct 14, 2011

This is one of those routes that has a hefty hold whenever you need one, has a ledge whenever you need to take a rest, and get's nice and technical in spots. Probably my favorite route in the area. The ledge 2/3 of the way up is big enough to pitch a tent on.
By Brian McKenna
Jun 22, 2012

Anyone know what the 3rd anchor (off to the right of the main chains) is for?

as of yesterday, both the first ledge and the anchor area were covered in loose rock... belayers beware. also the very wide crack to the left of the sharp narrow one at the top (the obvious bail out route) seems like a death trap for belayers also.
By PeterSLenz
From: Salt Lake City
Oct 6, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I climbed Day as Night for the first time today, and thoroughly enjoyed the route. Nice job, James!
Ron Bert and I also climbed a wonderful crack system which started just to the right of Day as Night, in the prominent dihedral. It then diverged rightward through a wide crack, then through a steep, but short thin crack, and finally rejoined Day as Night at the very top. This route has clearly seen many ascents, but I could not find any written record of it. The climbing was superb and was well protected with a standard rack of nuts and cams. A few single length runners were useful to reduce rope drag. We thought the difficulty to be 5.8-9. I thought it was equal in quality to many of the better known cracks in the Wasatch. It was marred only by a bit of friable rock in the middle of the route, just below the thin crack. Does anyone know the climbing history of this esthetic, yet unsung route? If it lacks a name, I propose this one: "Dam Nice Crack."
By James Garrett
Jun 13, 2013

QLs added to Glue-In bolt at top anchor and chain lengthened to better equalize and greatly extend the life of the anchor. All other hardware on route are in good condition.

Even if TRing or leading the trad line "Dam Fine Cracks" to the right, this anchor is optimally positioned.

Not really sure what was up with the single 1/2" (slightly buckled and not flush with the rock surface) Fixe ring bolt about 1m to the east? I thought about removing the lone bolt, but left it in the end. I mean, who is going to rap off of one bolt anyway....especially when a two-bolt belay is just off to the left?

Please use locking carabiners or draws when lowering and TRing the route.