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Routes in The Cobra
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Cochamo Speedball S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dawn Patrol S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dirt Gator S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gooey Grasshopper, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Little Smoky Picnics at Lake Point S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mini Blonde Bomb S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Red Dawn S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Riki Tiki Tavi S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Suits and Boots S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wavy Gravy S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Mike Snyder, 2012 |
| Page Views: | 2,062 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Snyder on Aug 18, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Step off the rock shelf platform onto the arete and climb the 5.8 Suits and Boots skipping the ring anchor to clip the 6th bolt instead. Negotiate a tricky 5.12 section to reach two decent pockets and the 7th bolt. Climb straight up into the gray rock and the scoop to find a great stem over to a giant knife blade feature. Milk this rest then work the stem a couple moves until you are forced to leave it and commit to the steep face. A dynamic move is well protected but the belayer must be attentive because the rock wall behind you is close. One more strenuous sequence is rewarded with enormous jugs to clip the anchor. This route is one of the best I've ever bolted. A must do!!!
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