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Long Canyon North
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Number 11 in High on Moab guide book T 
Bare Knuckle Boxing T 
Chalk is Cheap T,S 
Chopper T 
Dark Passenger , The T 
Dawn of an Error T 
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Dawn of an Error 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kyle Copeland, Sue Kemp: April 9, 1987
Season: South Facing
Page Views: 779
Submitted By: charley graham on Nov 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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The Swedin-Ringle of Long Canyon. Narrowing splitter beginning with easy #6 camalots and decreasing all the way to tips. There is an optional intermediate anchor at 90 ft. that forces you to clip the chains in the middle of the crux wide fingers section. Going to the second set gives you a longer, more varied experience with a good stance to clip the anchors from.


The first classic-looking splitter encountered up canyon from the North Spur (The side canyon containing the Shipyard crag.) on the sunny side of Long Canyon at the Deadman's Buttress.


Triple set of cams tips to #2 camalot with one #3 and an optional #6. if you're stopping at the first anchors you don't need anything smaller than #.5 Camalot.

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By LahDaBudz
From: moab, ut
Jan 15, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

classic thinning crack from big hands to fingers. highly recommended especially in spring or fall. there are 2 anchors. the higher one prob. adds another grade as it is fingers the rest of the way.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 7, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Some hard climbing getting above the first anchor and then it eases up to the second anchor. Great route!
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