Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Long Canyon North
Select Route:
Bare Knuckle Boxing T 
Chalk is Cheap T,S 
Chopper T 
Dark Passenger , The T 
Dawn of an Error T 
Dragon's Lair T 
Gin and Techtonics T 
Head Stack T 
Peccadillo T 
Program Director T 
Shit Eatin' Grin T 

Dawn of an Error 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kyle Copeland, Sue Kemp: April 9, 1987
Season: South Facing
Page Views: 616
Submitted By: charley graham on Nov 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

The Swedin-Ringle of Long Canyon. Narrowing splitter beginning with easy #6 camalots and decreasing all the way to tips. There is an optional intermediate anchor at 90 ft. that forces you to clip the chains in the middle of the crux wide fingers section. Going to the second set gives you a longer, more varied experience with a good stance to clip the anchors from.

Location 

The first classic-looking splitter encountered up canyon from the North Spur (The side canyon containing the Shipyard crag.) on the sunny side of Long Canyon at the Deadman's Buttress.

Protection 

Triple set of cams tips to #2 camalot with one #3 and an optional #6. if you're stopping at the first anchors you don't need anything smaller than #.5 Camalot.


Comments on Dawn of an Error Add Comment
Show which comments
By LahDaBudz
From: moab, ut
Jan 15, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

classic thinning crack from big hands to fingers. highly recommended especially in spring or fall. there are 2 anchors. the higher one prob. adds another grade as it is fingers the rest of the way.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 7, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Some hard climbing getting above the first anchor and then it eases up to the second anchor. Great route!