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Dawn of an Error
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 31
votes
Routes in Deadman's Buttress
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Chalk is Cheap T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chasin' Skirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Chopper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dark Passenger, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dawn of an Error T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dragon's Lair T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Program Director T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shit Eatin' Grin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Spawn of a Terror T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Teacher Conference T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown 11 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Unnamed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | Kyle Copeland, Sue Kemp: April 9, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 2,729 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | charley graham on Nov 26, 2009 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The Swedin-Ringle of Long Canyon. Narrowing splitter beginning with easy #6 camalots and decreasing all the way to tips. There is an optional intermediate anchor at 90 ft. that forces you to clip the chains in the middle of the crux wide fingers section. Going to the second set gives you a longer, more varied experience with a good stance to clip the anchors from.
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