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The Sorcerer
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Davy Jones' Locker 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro, Randy Leavitt (1981)
Page Views: 2,438
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Aug 15, 2007  with updates from walker emerson

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

An amazing, splitter hand to thin hand slating flake/crack arches up to an undercling/jam traverse (#3 Camalot) and then a good chicken-wing and stem rest with a finger size piece. Reach out right and get a small TCU and turn on the POWER. Hold on and place one of your smaller Stoppers higher in the crack/seam out right. If there is chalk on the crux holds, then you are totally stoked! Crimp and crank your way up sequential edges that get better and aim for the top of the headwall and welcome jugs. Make sure your last pieces are bomber 'cause its big air if you blow the sequence! Once you are standing above the angle of repose, it's EZ to the bolted anchor.


Location 

The 5.7 approach pitch up the right side of the big block under the route is actually fun and interesting (I think). My Aussie comrades, being unaccustomed to chimney techniques, thought otherwise. A 60M rope lowers off with a little excess. It is possible to rap off the top of the approach pitch using 1 60M with some effort but I would recommend bringing 2 ropes or 1 70M!!


Protection 

(4-5x) #2 Camalot, (3-4x) #1 Camalot, #3 Camalot, (1x) Purple-Orange size TCU's, (1x) #4-7 Stoppers, 60M Rope(s) or 70M (better)



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By Peter Winter
Sep 12, 2009

This is a great route. You can actually continue up the crack at the top and place some more gear if you're worried about whipping.

By Leavittator
Aug 12, 2013

My hands are sweaty just remembering this one. It is excellent and gets extra credit for, fortunately, being all naturally protected.