An amazing, splitter hand to thin hand slating flake/crack goes for 70 feet up to an undercling/jam traverse (#3 Camalot under the roof with sling). Then a good chicken-wing and stem rest with a finger size piece. Reach out right and get a small TCU and turn on the POWER. Hold on and place one of your smaller Stoppers higher in the crack/seam out right. If there is chalk on the crux holds, then you are totally stoked! Crimp and crank your way up sequential edges that get better and aim for the top of the headwall and welcome jugs. Make sure your last pieces are bomber 'cause its big air if you blow the sequence!
Once you are standing above the angle of repose, it's EZ to the bolted anchor, which is 3 older bolts but seems okay.
The 5.7 approach pitch up the right side of the big block under the route is actually fun and interesting (I think). My Aussie comrades, being unaccustomed to chimney techniques, thought otherwise. A 60M rope lowers off with a little excess. It is possible to rap off the top of the approach pitch using 1 60M with some effort but I would recommend bringing 2 ropes or 1 70M!!
Per Davy Jones' Locker: Continue down the gully between the Sorcerer and the Witch. Pass the Fire Wall and Pyromania. You will see two chimneys on your right to the north. Take the shorter steeper left chimney, climb up to a tree. Perhaps haul packs to here. Continue to the top and then have second send up the bag once they climb up.
(4-5x) #2 Camalot, (3-4x) #1 Camalot, #3 Camalot, (1x) Purple-Orange size TCU's, (1x) #4-7 Stoppers, 60M Rope(s) or 70M (better)
|By Peter Winter|
Sep 12, 2009
This is a great route. You can actually continue up the crack at the top and place some more gear if you're worried about whipping.
Aug 12, 2013
My hands are sweaty just remembering this one. It is excellent and gets extra credit for, fortunately, being all naturally protected.