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 ADVANCED
Davis Face
Select Route:
Carter Classic T 
D3  S 
D4 S 
Davis' Dirty Crack T 
Unknown Sport Route Right of Center Route S 
What's Up? T 

Davis' Dirty Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Cheyenne Chaffe and Kip Davis, 2010
Page Views: 484
Submitted By: claramie on May 29, 2012

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Description 

This is a fun, moderate crack climb up the left side of a pillar / mini-buttress to a 2 bolt anchor. There is grass in the crack. The leader might want a nut tool to clean out placements a little where grass and dirt are taking up red Alien and #0.75 Camalot slots. Gardening on lead = adventure climbing.

A single 60 reaches the ground just fine.

Location 

This is the low angle crack system about 50 feet right of What's Up (about 200 feet left of Carter Classic). There is grass in the crack.

(It is not the bolted climb immediately left of Carter Classic.)

Protection 

Standard rack (a single rack is fine).


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By Kip Davis
Jun 5, 2012

This climb was put up back in 2010. We named the climb "Davis' Dirty Crack", 5.7. Two more pitches continue up from here in a dihedral to the left of the anchor and through a roof up higher. We gave the rating 5.9 for those two pitches.
By Cheyenne Chaffee
From: North Conway, NH
Sep 17, 2012

This route actually has three pitches. From the two bolt anchor, head up and left into a flake crack system. Eventually you have to step right to another crack and there should be a bolt somewhere in there to protect the move. About 5.9. Belay on an obvious ledge system. From there, head straight up through a weird little overlap/ bulge thing. The gear is better than it looks. The crux is getting over the bulge, maybe 5.10-, maybe eaiser, you be the judge. Follow cracks adventurously up and eventually moving left to the top anchor of What's Up? Enjoy!