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Making it look easy on a fine winter day. January ...
Thin face climbing that requires more technique and trust than power. Crux comes around last bolt and to the anchors. The route can be started from atop the boulder/wall or from below the boulder/wall. Starting down low makes for a run-out to the first bolt but the climbing is fairly easy.
Face route right of Holy Wall and Holy Crack. Shown as route number 14 on the Overlook route topo photo.
Five bolts to chain anchor. Accessed by the easy scrambling on top of the Lower Buttress below the main wall. Anchor can be reached from the top to set a TR if you're really desperate and cautious but best to sling the boulders for a TR anchor.
Bobbi Bensman on Dave's Face-10c
Jon Richard navigating the Sale at Mervyn's.
|By Curt Dvonch|
From: los alamos, nm
Mar 12, 2011
The fixed biners are getting severely warn down on this route's anchors. Any suggestions for what biners to use when replacing these ones?
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 12, 2011
Excellent that you want to replace them, Curt. Thanks. Obviously, steel biners are best but expensive. Any type of aluminum biner works but, as you've seen, will wear pretty quickly. Bent gate biners are nice and easier for clipping but not required.
I'm in the habit of using one steel, one aluminum with the steel preferably taking most of the load. I have some nice steel biners (there's one on Holy Wall now) that I'll be glad to place one on this route next time I'm there.