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Common Courtesy Crag
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Chlamydial Meat Pie T 
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Dave With His Pants Down 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: John Tormalehto & Jim Belcer, 1994
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 535
Submitted By: John Tormalehto on May 29, 2006

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Greg Sievers wishing he had more #4 Camalots...

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This excellent crack pitch is located in the center of the south face of the crag. Climb the steep fist crack, stemming off the small buttress forming the corner. After 25' of fisting, the crack opens up for the crux. The crux is 2 or 3 body lengths of meat and potatoes arm barring. At this point the crack changes to hands and thin hands for the last 15'. Belay on the ledge to the right (natural anchor).

Location 

Descend off to the NW, minor down climbing.

Protection 

Bring double hand-sized pieces, 3 or 4 #4 Camalots, and 1 or 2 #4.5 Camalots. Save some hand-sized pieces for the anchor.


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By John Tormalehto
May 29, 2006

This stout little pitch would be excellent training for the Crack of Fear or for anyone else breaking into the 5.10 realm of wide-crack climbing.