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Dauphin Narrows

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Dauphin Narrows Bouldering 
South Buttress (Linoy Buttress) 

Dauphin Narrows  


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Location: 40.352, -76.9151 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,491
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, The Stoned Master, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: The Stoned Master on Jun 7, 2013
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From the top of Metamorphisis. A really fun second...

Description 

Aka Second Mountain. Along the 322, just South of Dauphin, PA are two prominent buttresses named North Buttress and South Buttress (aka Linoy Buttress). The North Buttress has looser rock, some routes, but rarely if ever climbed upon. The bulk of the established routes are on the Southern buttress. This place is unique because you can/will climb through different layers of rock, different stone types. I've heard this place called a blend between the Gunks and Eldo Canyon, Colorado. Ill let you decide for yourself.

It is HIGHLY recommended you wear a helmet because there is loose rock. Some parties also bring radios because sometimes the traffic noise makes communication hard.

This place offers the rare (to PA) opportunity to multi-pitch "adventure" climb. There are numerous multi-pitch routes. Albeit routes were being established back in the 70s and has some fine, fun lines, it isn't climbed on that often any more (maybe that'll change?). Probably due to previous access issues.

This place is OPEN however consider it ACCESS SENSITIVE please! Your interactions with the locals, with the railroad companies do matter! Don't be "that guy" that fudges our sensitive access up.

Getting There 

On Second Mountain. From the 322 get off on the 443/Fishing Creek Valley Rd, head away from the river (East) and turn immediately onto Cemetery Rd. Follow this until its end and park in one of the pull offs or pull just off the road. People do live here PLEASE DO NOT block this road in any way. The railroad company commonly has their engineers/conductors/crew picked up here plus it is still a residential neighborhood.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.1 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dauphin Narrows:
Metamorphosis   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   South Buttress (Linoy Buttr...
Browse More Classics in Dauphin Narrows

Featured Route For Dauphin Narrows
View from the top of Metamorphisis.

Metamorphosis 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  PA : South Central PA : ... : South Buttress (Linoy Buttr...
A wonderfully fun climb. The second pitch is the "money" pitch for sure. P1 - climb straight up (make your way up) to a two bolted belay that sits just below the overhanging rock. P2 - you start immediately pulling the first overhang (protected by a bolt) and climb straight up through two vertical sections to the top. There is a large evergreen +/-15ft back from the cliffs edge (probably slung with webbing but don't count on it!) to belay and rappel from.Use your best judgement for the descent. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in PA

Photos of Dauphin Narrows Slideshow Add Photo
Odysseus roof boulder. There is some fun bouldering to be had here. Bouldering with an adventerous approach and beautiful mountain views.
Odysseus roof boulder. There is some fun boulderin...
Gotta love the experience of the view.
Gotta love the experience of the view.

Comments on Dauphin Narrows Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Beyeler
Jun 10, 2013
Here is a link to the latest guide revision: Dauphin Narrows Guide rev 6
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From: Pennsylvania
Jun 11, 2013
Thank you Eric for preserving the history and sharing the beta! Your guide is thoughtful and the pictures are awesome. Thank you.

DON'T assume there will be rappel stations (chains, bolts, webbing/cord, etc) ready for you. On EVERY route be prepared to create your own rappel setup.

Maybe in time we won't need to worry about this but for now we do.

Thank you!
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 11, 2013
Thanks Eric, I linked your guide as the official link for Dauphin!