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Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") 

Datura 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Durland
Page Views: 127
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2009
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Beginning the reachy business above the ledge. Sh...

Description 

Another diamond in the rough, Datura climbs a beautiful panel of white limestone on excellent pockets & edges. This reachy line has just enough holds to make it go, and no more. The line is marred slightly by a sketchy band of stacked blogs that guard the start, making a stick clip a wise choice. Teeter your way up the choss-band to a balance mantle onto a nice ledge below the clean panel. A long reach (or desperate crux for shorties ~5'6" & under) off thin 2-finger pockets leads to a sinker jug and a stellar section of long cranks of classic Shelf pocket-jugs. Rest up at the obvious horizontal break, just below the sustained crux. Move up, and then hard right to the right arete, with the help of a sinker mono (those with smaller fingers can get two in here). Slap strenuously up the arete to a nice flat jug above a small ceiling. From here its possible to continue up the arete, or traverse back left across the bolt line, to reach the anchor.


Location 

Climbs the clean white panel 15' left of "The Burnt Toast". Also the first bolted line right of the Shelf Refrigerator.


Protection 

6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Stick Clip highly recommended!



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