A very nice, semi-wandering route that ends at the apex of Razor Back. The first pitch of this route is covered in the 2nd edtion of the SuperTopo Tuolumne book; however, the climb continues on for two more pitches. While there is nothing on this route that qualifies as 'R', there is a fair bit of 5.7/5.8 climbing 10-15 feet above bolts and further distance on easier climbing.
Pitch one: Friction up past three bolts to a small, left angling ledge. Traverse the ledge and then climb up past two bolts. Continue upwards to a roof and a gear placement. Pull over the small roof and continue past one more bolt to a two bolt anchor (5.8; 160 feet).
Pitch two: Friction and smedge 12-15 feet up from the belay (5.7/5.8) to the first bolt. Continue past several more bolts to a small circular flake region that takes gear. Then continue up and gradually left, past several more well spaced bolts to a large right facing corner. Gear is available here and climbing to the top of the short corner gains a nice ledge and a two bolt anchor (5.9; 120 feet).
Pitch three: Climb up and right 15 feet from the belay to the first bolt. Clip two more bolts as you surmount a small roof and continue knob climbing to a right trending (dirty) ramp. Follow the ramp up and right (cams) to a clean face and a bolt. Climb up and left past several more bolts and mantle (5.8) onto a ledge at the top of Razor Back with a two bolt anchor (5.8; 170 feet).
Draws (including longer runners for gear). Gear: 0.5, 1, 2 Camalots or equivalent.
Dastardly Rascal is the next bolt line to the left of Flash of the Blade. The beta photo shows the top pitch and a half; use the beta photo for Flash of the Blade as a reference to find the start of the first pitch.
From: Yosemite Valley
Aug 15, 2011
P1 is less than 160 feet. My estimate is more 110.
You can rap from P2 with a 70m rope all the way to the base.
|By Jeff Scheuerell|
Jul 11, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
I had 2 60m ropes and they did not reach the ground from the P2 anchor. That must be some stretchy 70 you got there.