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Darkstar 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Flagstaff Oldschool
Page Views: 3,508
Submitted By: Mike on Nov 29, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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1 leg jam + 1 great handhold = a nice OW rest. Ne...

Description 

Climbs obvious 'lightning bolt' offwidth in between the Winsloner & Valley Girl. Start in a nice handcrack that quickly gets wide. OW past a couple nice rests to the intermediate anchors on the right just after a short chimney section, which allow one to rap/TR with a single 70m rope. Or just continue to top & use 2 ropes. A nice line.

Location 

Located downstream on the West Wall, just inside Shady Grove.

Protection 

1 #2, 1 #3, 3-4 #4, & 2 #5 camalots. Add a few more cams and a #6 if you want to feel extra secure. Bolted rap anchor at 110', or continue to top.


Photos of Darkstar Slideshow Add Photo
Nestor Garcia climbing the Darkstar off-width at Winslow Wall.
Nestor Garcia climbing the Darkstar off-width at W...
Nestor eyes up the last hard bit of Darkstar at Winslow Wall.
Nestor eyes up the last hard bit of Darkstar at Wi...
Nestor showing his O-face, his Off-width face that is, on Darkstar at Winslow Wall.
Nestor showing his O-face, his Off-width face that...
suggested rack for darkstar
suggested rack for darkstar
If you like the wide stuff, it's as good as it looks.
If you like the wide stuff, it's as good as it loo...
dont know why people want to argue about whether this is a king line.  look at it!
dont know why people want to argue about whether t...

Comments on Darkstar Add Comment
Show which comments
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Sep 6, 2011

i had 4 #5's and a #6, 2 #4's, a #3 and a #2. It was perfect, I used every piece. This climb is SO great!!!!!! Love it!
By Sun2Stone
From: Phoenix,AZ
Sep 20, 2011

Followed after Nestors Lead. scraped my anckels alot, did the upper crux offwidth with a lay back above the block. Cm
By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Jan 27, 2012

I lead this with two 4's and a 5. It was pretty sketchy towards the top. I recommend at least two 5's and a 6.
By RyanJames
Jan 28, 2012

Darkstar is definitely one of the most aesthetic climbs in the canyon, for sure!
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Stellar. To REALLY sew this up: 2, 3, 3x4, 3x5, 3x6.
By Tradoholic
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I did this fairly safely with a rack of doubles up to C4 #5, a #1 down low then bigger stuff as you go higher. I leap frogged the 5s and slung a big chockstone near the top where a #6 would go.

A very blue collar route and harder than it looks. If you are into that sort of thing this is 4 stars. If not be prepared to suffer.