Darkness 'til Dawn
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Unknown climber gettin' into it.
Had I not had to go uphill and out of site to use the bathroom before doing Vertigo last week, I would not have seen this beauty. D.t.D is just around the corner from Grandmother's Challenge in a shaded alcove. This climb stays shaded a long time. No one does the 2nd pitch and no one should want to do it.
Basically, start on big holds and a crack on the right side of the dihedral. This climb throws it all at you. I had fist jams, hand jams, thin hands, finger locks, side pulls, jugs, a couple of crimps, stems, feet in the crack and feet on small edges (don't worry, if I forgot something, this pitch probably has it). The other really nice thing about this route is that it is fairly sustained and stays interesting. The climb is nice and steep, especially the first section, and it may even stay dry in the rain. If you can't tell by now, I enjoyed the heck out of this climb.
The first pitch is about 140 feet long and has chain anchors. I placed a #4 Camalot near the top for added comfort. Otherwise, bring a standard rack.
BETA PHOTO: Darkness 'Til Dawn. Use a 70m rope to rappel or l...
Unknown climber gettin' into it. (2 of 2)
Steve Johnson follows Darkness 'Til Dawn. (c)2002...
Steve Johnson follows Darkness 'Til Dawn (2). (c)...
In case you weren't sure, Clint points out the rou...
Taking advantage of one of the no-hands rests. Ph...
Mike Amato stemming wide at the first hard move.
Mike Amato working the crack low on the route.
Mike Amato working into the crux section halfway u...
Mike Amato working the crack in the right wall two...
Mike Amato at the final wide crack just below the ...
Dave Gentry on Darkness 'til Dawn
Joseffa Meir follows "Darkness 'til Dawn (5.9)" on...
Simone leading Darkness 'til Dawn.
Simone leading Darkness 'til Dawn.
|Comments on Darkness 'til Dawn
|By Kristo torgersen|
Aug 1, 2001
this is a spectacular climb, and quite long a sustained for the grade, but don't let this scare you. there are several excellent rests and the gear is incredible (many medium nuts camalots .5 to 3), just be sure to bring enough if you don't feel comfortable running it out. to get off i lowered to a height about 20' above the ground with a 60m rope, and then did some very easy downclimbing to the ground.
|By Bryson Slothower|
Jan 23, 2002
I find this route to be pretty stout for the grade especially because it used to be called 5.9! I would caution anyone who picks this as their first 5.10 in Eldo even though the gear is very good, the crux is thin!!!...Excellent route though, and totaly overlooked. This is a good alternative to other crowded routes in the area. Top o' the li
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 23, 2002
Stemming and Palm-smearing are the technique keys necessary to keep this route feeling like it's original grade of 5.9
|By Bryson Slothower|
May 21, 2002
Ok, I must make it harder than it needs to be because last time I did this route my second (Lindsay Gill) walked up it in tennis shoes!...
|By Joe Collins|
Aug 20, 2002
One can climb up and left on bad rock from the anchor at about 5.6R to access Green Slab Direct. Helmets and a belayer who is ready to sprint out of the way of the oncoming rockslide are a must. I seem to remember doing this in one 60m pitch from the ground. The climbing is way-jingus but it goes.
|By steve dieckhoff|
Aug 21, 2002
There is also a DIRECT FINISH to this that gets you to the tree. It's obvious, about .10+, and was a real favorite of Derek's. Don't let that last fact dissuade you though, it's well worth doing. Double ropes let you lead it all with no drag and make for an great rap back down.
|By Dan St. John|
From: Castle Rock
Aug 26, 2002
Excelet Climb!!! Many short cruxes with rest in between them all. If it feel hard you are not milking all the rests. Take 2x2, 2 x 3 , 3.5, 4. It looks small from the ground but if get quite wide in places.
|By Jason Nelson|
From: SLC, UT
Jan 3, 2003
Keep in mind that you need two ropes to get down (unless you have a 70m rope). Summer '02 there was an accident here and I know someone that also let the end of the rope slip through the belay device and caught it with one had. Yikes!
|By Dan Russell|
Jan 6, 2003
you CAN rap with a 60m, you just have to downclimb the first easy section. just make sure you start downclimbing BEFORE you hit the end of the rope!
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Jun 22, 2003
I did his climb for the first time yesterday. It is indeed a must do for the grade. Next time, I would leave the large cams on the ground. Bring two #1, #2, and #3 camolats. A single 30M rap works well, with a short low fifth class down climb.
|By Chris Weber|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 13, 2003
Caution: people have been dropped when toproping the route, with tragic results. If you are going to toprope, DEFINITELY tie a knot in the end of the belayer's rope, even with a 60m.Even then, downclimbing is required, and some scrambling by the belayer.
|By Larry Earley|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 14, 2004
Excellent route. You will use all your climbing skills. Great pro. Crux in middle is thin. This is the perfect rain climb. We took our time and climbed dry through a good rain for 45 minutes.Climber and belayer stayed dry. It wasn't windy but just a steady rain.
|By Michael Amato|
Oct 11, 2004
Great route, a number of challenges and good pro before each. I found a #3 and a #3.5 Camalot very useful down low after the initial transition into the corner.
Nov 10, 2005
I've seen this one several times coming down the trail after doing other climbs and have always been intimidated. However, I rapped off the tree after finishing Grandmother's Challenge the other day and gave it a go. I am just getting into 10a Eldo leads and I found this one to be really fun and reasonable, albeit long. The gear is generally very secure and almost all moves are followed by good rests. Highly [recommended].
Nov 11, 2005
One of the best pitches....
From: Englewood, CO
Feb 1, 2006
Great long pitch. Milk those rest stances. No hard moves, just tricky sequences. Onsight 2/1/06!!!
|By Mike C. Robinson|
From: Rumney, NH
May 7, 2007
What a climb! Great variation of moves. If only this went to the top, Couldn't get enough of this route. Wow!
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Oct 24, 2008
Despite the rests, I thought this route was enjoyably sustained. I brought a #3.5 and #4 Camalot and placed one towards the bottom and another at the very top, though a #2 Camalot would have worked at the top. Beyond that I had a standard rack and placed a variety of pro from small nuts to a #3 Camalot.
|By Devan Johnson|
Apr 22, 2009
I had a harder time on this route than on the first and last pitches of the Naked Edge.
|By Phil Lauffen|
Aug 15, 2009
For this climb I only had 1 #3, though doubles in #2 helped. Also, this was a climb where I wished I had lugged some smaller hexes along... looked like some great placement s! Also, you get a good rest every 10 feet at the very least, so don't be intimidated by the grade. I went into this climb thinking it was a 5.9. Pretty soft for the grade, compared to other 5.10as I have done in Eldo (Born under Punches, var. to Yellow Spur, Rosy Crucifixion...).
|By W. Spaller|
From: Estes Park
May 1, 2010
If you have 2 #4s, the bottom half will be a little more secure. Not required, but if this is at your limit, you will be happy to have them.
Sep 7, 2011
I agree that a few small hexes and a #4 might make you happy.
From: Pinewood Springs
Oct 17, 2011
I tried the 2nd pitch, was through the cool slot (undercling), and was at the white dagger hand hold in the corner (over halfway) when I decided to escape left since I could not see any gear on the upper right exit moves nor a rest.
But later I noticed I totally missed a large foot hold stance on the right face slightly above my head, doh!
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 7, 2011
Despite the looks of it, there's actually a bunch of solid gear on P2. I found a bomber brown tricam, 0.75, and 0.5 in the bizness of the roof. Now the rock you have to pull on, that's loose for sure.
You can link P1 and P2 for an amazing pitch with a 60m; go for it! Also, the crack start on P1 is great.
Jun 11, 2012
FOUND: Gear sling with QDs and a cam Saturday June 9, 2012. Gear has a one of a kind paint / tape job, so please give me an accurate description of it and it's yours!
|By Michael Butts|
From: Boulder, Co
Jun 26, 2012
rating: 5.10a PG13
Super CLASSIC 5.10 climbing. One of the best 10s I have done anywhere. This climb just eats up gear all the way to the top. Save a #1 or #2 for the top. Fun, sustained climbing with good rests.
Apr 4, 2013
Onsight after rapping down Grandmother's Challenge and sooooo glad I did this route! It'll be on my circuit now for sure, high quality! I used a 4, 3.5, and 3 C4 down low in the wide part of the crack and all smaller stuff the rest of the way. Previous commenter gave it a PG-13 gear rating, but I disagree. There is bomber gear everywhere you look on this thing, and you could easily put a piece every 2 feet if you wanted to. Down low you can protect the exposed moves into the corner committing to the crack by putting big cams out right, as I mentioned. Throws everything at you but with no-hands stances (I found 4 of them) and endless palming and stemming. I made it the original 5.9 by climbing efficiently, I can see how 10a is fair as well. Sustained and awesome, go do it!