Darkness at noon travels up a wall that is so highly featured that it makes it possible for folks of all sizes to figure out sequences through the various cruxes. The route can basically be broken up in to three sections; the first four bolts feature technical climbing on micro edges and two finger pockets, the middle section contains easier longer moves on good holds capped by a technical leftward traverse, and the final section is pumpy on good overhanging holds. The three sections are divided by full recovery resting jugs. While the hardest power endurance moves are found low on the route the redpoint crux is high up on the wall as you are forced to make a precision move to the "mail slot."
There are separate anchors for Darkness and Heinous. Bring some long slings for the Darkness anchors if you plan to have a top roping session (The anchors are poorly placed and create tons of rope drag). I've witnessed an annoying trend of people top roping darkness from the Heinous anchors. If you must monopolize both routes try to do this on a quiet day when it is unlikely that anyone will be waiting to get on either route. The first bolt is 15-20 feet off the deck so you'll probably have to sit on someone's shoulder to stick clip it.
Patient static climbers with great technical skills and lock off strength are well suited for this climb. Expect some sporting run outs.
Darkness At Noon is the route just to the left of Heinous Cling. You will need a 70m rope, this guy is long
8 Bolts to 2 BA. [Long] Stick clip recommended.
Darkness at Noon...... around noon on a cool cloud...
|By Joel Sprenger|
From: Terrebonne, OR
May 10, 2010
There is a controversial no-hands rest on the arete, also known as the "Portland rest" is said to throw the grade down significantly. The route follows the name and does go into the shade after 12. This is a good thing on hot days, but in the winter months it makes quite the epic belay for the belayer(bring the down jacket).