|(1) North Face
Climb frodo's journey on the left side of the north wall, skip the anchors and head up a devious dihedral. Once you're into the roof, attack the first crux to a lip jug. Some 5.12 face moves just before the headwall requiring sidepulls and heel hooks. Entering the final headwall, small crimping sidepulls and weird feet protect the chains with the final "crux". It is a very large chance that you will fall on the last move at least once. Grade not conformed.
Left side of the north wall, start up frodo's journey till the ledge, then go straight up into the dihedral, this is where dark tower starts.
|By peachy spohn|
Sep 7, 2011
I got on this for the first time today and (to my surprise) it had been cleaned and fixed with draws. The climbing is very interesting, the first bulge crux especially, and the higher you get the better the climbing becomes. Solid rock. I recommend it.
|By peachy spohn|
Sep 8, 2011
Today I sent Dark Tower (I think it is the FFA?). Thanks to Phillip for cleaning the route, and letting the line catch my eye! I would say it is surely .13a/b, but more towards the "b." Great line!
|By another Chad|
Sep 9, 2011
Nice work Matt. "It's too hot for projects" is not an excuse I can use anymore!
May 18, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c
Lousy video, but good beta!
|By Eric Schnepel|
Apr 15, 2014
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c
This is a fantastic route that really deserves more attention. Although Broughton may not be the greatest crag on earth, it has a handful of outstanding lines that are too often overlooked by Portland climbers. I would certainly include DT in this collection. Anyone climbing the grade should seriously consider giving this thing some time. It's all cleaned up for the year and I've left my draws hanging to hopefully entice some more traffic.
Overview of the line: Climb the enjoyable 5.9, Frodo's Journey, to a stance and anchor at about 50'. (Bring 3 long slings to keep the rope running straight. It's also nice to have a purple C4 w/ long sling to place behind the block at 2/3 height. It's not essential as the moves are easy, but a fall without the cam would not be good.)
Start up a mellow dihedral leading to a large roof. Make a dynamic move over the roof and establish yourself on some big feet and sidepulls. The nature of the climbing from this section to the top is peculiar as the the hands and feet are generally quite good, but oriented oriented in directions that never allow you to release tension. It seems that you always need to squeeze to stay on. Try your best not to get pumped as you work your way up to the crux boulder problem and difficult last clip as the angle kicks back at about 90'. The boulder problem is techy and sequential but still requires some grrrr and a little bicep power. Make it through the boulder problem and try to relax as you execute the final sequence to the chains. Contrary to the route description, I did not find the last move to be difficult. If you can make it through the boulder problem, the route should be in the bag.