Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Watermark
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dark Tower T 
Glennevere S 
Lothlorien S 
Memory of Trees, The S 
Minas Tireth S 
Road to Isengard S 
Twin Cracks Left T,S 
Twin Cracks Right T,S 
Twin Peaks S,TR 

Dark Tower 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Free Solo
Page Views: 1,369
Submitted By: Jake Wyatt on Jul 21, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Dark Tower. Angle left on the slab and follow the...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Dark Tower is found on the second arete from the left of the Watermark formation, an area developed by Richard Rossiter during a particularly Tolkenian period in his career. It's easy to see where that influence was inspired, the forest around the base of the shady cliff is primordal. And if my experience is an indication of this route's karma, approach with caution, Traveler....

The start of the line consists of crossing a slab to gain a crack that angles up onto a rib, which then angles left to the arete. The crack may be intimidating, but a fine, fun lead. As the crack arcs left above a roof and dies on the face before the arete, the psycological crux is encountered as you must traverse over exposure on the face. Pass the large tree on the right (I found the crack above the tree afforded better protection to save rope drag.) Interesting climbing continues up the face. You can set up a nice belay on a shelf at the top.

Be aware: as I brought my second up, I happened to notice a (large!) red ant colony swarming all over my rope and over my legs. It was aweful. Nasty buggers were biters too.

You can sprint off the shelf left and scramble down the gully east of the Watermark and then traverse back to its base.


Protection 

SR.



Photos of Dark Tower Slideshow Add Photo
John Jennings
John Jennings
Comments on Dark Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 3, 2002
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I soloed the route yesterday and here's my take on it: The rock is kinda junky and dirty and the ants are still there. I crumbed a hold or two each way, up and down. There was dirt in the cracks besides.

I'd have given it the bomb.

By victor villarreal
Jun 3, 2002

Pesky ants.

By Steve Marr
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 7, 2006

No ants as of July 2006, but still not worth hauling a rack up to the crag for. The climbing was easy, but I thought the pro was less than great. The line looks better than it is.

By John Layko Torkleson
Aug 1, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A set of tri cams will help immensely with this route in my opinion. Still dirty. I think it would clean up into something if more people got on it. No ants on top.