Dark Side Wall Rock Climbing
Use The Force, it beats getting your ass off the c...
And here it is, young evil Jedi, the wall where you prove yourself worthy. Feel it! Breath it in! Let yourself sucumb to the power of The Dark Side! And remember, good guys wear black.
After hopping off the uphill trail you'll find yourself on a flat, fairly wide road. Turn right and start walking up canyon towards the Sunshine Wall Parking lot where you left your vehicle.
About one minute into your walk you'll see a very blonde hunk of rock with three bolts in it. This is the climb known as Erectile Dysfunction and the mostly blonde, Hersey's Kiss shaped rock formation that it is attached to is The Streaker Wall, which is home to some very impressive 5.11's and 5.12's.
If you keep on walking past The Streaker Wall you'll end up at a large section of blonde and black streaked cliff band with imposing 5.12's and 5.13's. If you keep walking to where the cliff band ends you'll end up at a section of wall with a blonde bottom which streaks to the left and moves its way up. This area has a handful of stout 5.11's that might be the best place to start your evil Jedi training before moving down canyon to some of the most difficult climbs in the galaxy. Beyond the wall of tall 5.11's (to its right) is a group of shorter climbs that are located up a slope and away from the main traverse trail. This is "The Space Balls Wall" and this little wall is composed of some shorter climbs that still pack a big punch.
Climbing Season For the The Dark Side area.
Weather station 5.0 miles from here
33 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Dark Side Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Dark Side Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dark Side Wall:
E-walk 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 45'
Choda 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 90'
Featured Route For Dark Side Wall
Gabba the Nut 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b SD
: Spearfish Canyon
: ... : Dark Side Wall
A spectacular crux sequence should draw anybody breaking into the grade to this climb. Climb through the crux of Passover then split right at the undercling/block. Grab a quick shake here then head straight up to the bulge on small crimps. Clip then grab a small left sidepull to initiate the right traverse. The feet are terrible but the undercling cross to the pocket should make you remember why you love climbing. Pull over the bulge and find the 'thank god' clip hold or take the whip. Eas...[more] Browse More Classics in SD
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