Dark Side of the Moon
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Start well left under the bolted face and climb up and to the right on a couple of thin edges to base of flake, then undercling and layback the flake to the top. The crux is probably getting fully onto the flake.
The flake is a cool feature that offers moves reminiscent of other (taller and better) climbs.
The Pink Floyd Wall is the first (small) wall one comes to on the approach to the main cliff. The climb ascends up and around the flake that is probably the most prominent feature on the cliff.
Bolted TR anchors.
I thought I remember this flake expanding a bit (a long time ago), but it felt pretty solid the last time I climbed it. It could be led, but you would have to place gear semi-blind and would be pretty strenuous. It would be good practice though for harder climbs maybe, but it is a fun top-rope.
BETA PHOTO: "Dark Side of the Moon" flake.
|Comments on Dark Side of the Moon
Nov 27, 2011
I climbed this from the left heading up right to the flake, but it looks like there might be a pretty hard direct start-- anyone done that?
From: Chocorua, NH
Jan 9, 2012
Hmmmmm, expanding flake+trad gear?
|By Chris McNeil|
From: Essex, MA
Mar 1, 2012
Yeah, I have been wondering about that chippy.
|By erik kapec|
From: prescott, az
Apr 30, 2013
Climbed it today and definitely was curious if anyone has had that flake catch a fall.... I also thought getting into the flake was slightly harder than the .10 to the left.
Apr 30, 2013
Did you start in the same place as the 5.10 and then head up under the flake?
If you start to the left of the vaguely obscene tree and head up and slightly left up into the flake, it's harder. Maybe 11ish. The moves involve some fun, super thin edging that will eat your shoe if you are not careful. Bouldery and unprotected if you are not on top-rope.