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Pink Floyd Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animals TR 
Atom Heart Mother S,TR 
Dark Side of the Moon T,TR 
Meddle T,TR 
Ummagumma 
Unnamed Bolted Face  S,TR 
Wish You Were Here TR 

Dark Side of the Moon 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 442
Submitted By: jim.dangle on Nov 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Climbs on The Pink Floyd Wall at Redrock in MA.

Description 

Start well left under the bolted face and climb up and to the right on a couple of thin edges to base of flake, then undercling and layback the flake to the top. The crux is probably getting fully onto the flake.

The flake is a cool feature that offers moves reminiscent of other (taller and better) climbs.

Location 

The Pink Floyd Wall is the first (small) wall one comes to on the approach to the main cliff. The climb ascends up and around the flake that is probably the most prominent feature on the cliff.

Protection 

Bolted TR anchors.

I thought I remember this flake expanding a bit (a long time ago), but it felt pretty solid the last time I climbed it. It could be led, but you would have to place gear semi-blind and would be pretty strenuous. It would be good practice though for harder climbs maybe, but it is a fun top-rope.


Photos of Dark Side of the Moon Slideshow Add Photo
"Dark Side of the Moon" flake.
BETA PHOTO: "Dark Side of the Moon" flake.

Comments on Dark Side of the Moon Add Comment
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By jim.dangle
Nov 27, 2011

I climbed this from the left heading up right to the flake, but it looks like there might be a pretty hard direct start-- anyone done that?

Jim
By JChepes
From: Chocorua, NH
Jan 9, 2012

Hmmmmm, expanding flake+trad gear?
By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Mar 1, 2012

Yeah, I have been wondering about that chippy.
By erik kapec
From: prescott, az
Apr 30, 2013

Climbed it today and definitely was curious if anyone has had that flake catch a fall.... I also thought getting into the flake was slightly harder than the .10 to the left.
By jim.dangle
Apr 30, 2013

Erik,

Did you start in the same place as the 5.10 and then head up under the flake?

If you start to the left of the vaguely obscene tree and head up and slightly left up into the flake, it's harder. Maybe 11ish. The moves involve some fun, super thin edging that will eat your shoe if you are not careful. Bouldery and unprotected if you are not on top-rope.

Jim