|Old Aid Wall aka Upper Echelon Wall
The climb starts same as Dream of Poudre and follows the first 3 bolts. To start the route properly, scramble up and make the big move from the glued on side pull to the small positive crimp. After clipping the 3rd bolt, make the next big move, switch hands, and start the heinous traverse to the right. At this point, you meet up with the Dark Horse project. Make a few more difficult moves, with a nice dead point, to gain the horizontal ledge and rest. From here, make a couple more big moves to gain another rest. Milk this as much as you can before making a series of easier moves to set up for the crux dyno throw. After the throw, turn onto the slab and finish on Dream of Poudre/Pinkle Bear.
Have an attentive belayer at the dyno, missing the jug on lead will send you reeling back into the ledge lower down. If you like big bouldery moves, this route should not be missed. It combines the best moves of Dream of Poudre with so much more.
12 bolts with chain anchors.
|By Rob Bailey|
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
I agree with Spencer, this is a great route and right up to par with the high bar set at the Ech. I will say the moves are not quite as interesting as some of the other routes on the wall like Tail Spin and Old Man, which is why I give it 3 stars, but if you're looking to step it up a notch, this climb should not be missed. A great finish that is super low percentage adds to the frustrations but makes the victory all that much sweeter. Only took me 16 heartbreaking tries.
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 18, 2014
What is the Dark Horse Project...and where is it? And how hard do you think it is? And is it open?
|By Spencer Anderson|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 22, 2014
The Dark Horse Project traverses in from the right side (to the left of Fulsom Flute) and finishes on Dark Pony. It was probably somewhere around 14- until one of the holds broke. Check with Ben Scott, but I think it's an open project.
From: Longmont, Co.
Jun 29, 2014
The bolt that protects the big Dyno seems loose. The actual bolt stud seems to wiggle a bit inside its hole. This bolt probably sees a lot of abuse with repeated falls from this hard section.
Just a heads up for anyone planning to get on the route.