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The climb starts same as Dream of Poudre and follows the first 3 bolts. To start the route properly, scramble up and make the big move from the glued on side pull to the small positive crimp. After clipping the 3rd bolt, make the next big move, switch hands, and start the heinous traverse to the right. At this point, you meet up with the Dark Horse project. Make a few more difficult moves, with a nice dead point, to gain the horizontal ledge and rest. From here, make a couple more big moves to gain another rest. Milk this as much as you can before making a series of easier moves to set up for the crux dyno throw. After the throw, turn onto the slab and finish on Dream of Poudre/Pinkle Bear.
Have an attentive belayer at the dyno, missing the jug on lead will send you reeling back into the ledge lower down. If you like big bouldery moves, this route should not be missed. It combines the best moves of Dream of Poudre with so much more.
12 bolts with chain anchors.
|By Rob Bailey|
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c
I agree with Spencer, this is a great route and right up to par with the high bar set at the Ech. I will say the moves are not quite as interesting as some of the other routes on the wall like Tail Spin and Old Man, which is why I give it 3 stars, but if you're looking to step it up a notch, this climb should not be missed. A great finish that is super low percentage adds to the frustrations but makes the victory all that much sweeter. Only took me 16 heartbreaking tries.