Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches
FA: R. Rossiter, Solo, (1980s?)
Page Views: 825 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 18, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A cool boulder problem to another big Flatiron slab and ridge.

Climb up under the bulging flakes and set high feet- Pull up on underclings and set a solid piece (one piece) and then get fingers above that in the remaining part of the hold. Pull up and over into horizontals and up onto the slab on solid rock.
There was some old webbing hanging from a rotten flake- it was decayed and had lichen growing on it- it was removed. Continue as you please (many possibilities) to reach the ridge. Up and right you can reach a deep channel and crack (5.2?) that will intercept the East Face route at the intersection of the summit ridge, 210' total. Up and left is a direct shot at the ridge, but is not a distinct describable line. I can not say what difficulty might be encountered, but it seems reasonable if you are willing to wander.
If you went Right, finish on the ridge as for the East Face. If you went left, figure out a belay somewhere and work it out. Terrible place for simul-climbing though....

Location Suggest change

Perhaps 200' up from the start of the standard east face route, there is a large bulge created by some huge overhanging flakes. This dark rock is pierced in one location by a small odd crack that offers 1 solid placement to protect the crux.

Protection Suggest change

The crux is protected with a 0.5-0.75" TCU, Alien, etc.... I used a green Alien. The rest is standard light rack and is a little runout.

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