Dark Matter 5.11b
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The sun in the eyes makes the crimps hard to see.
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Description Another fantastic line!
Shares the same first clip as Milky Way but head up towards an obvious hole. Small finger jugs (a tad dirty, but cleaning up) leads to a steller steep upper headwall with small but very solid crimps.
The last real challenge (and probably the crux) is a deadpoint to a good hold near at the top. Get your feet high! When you hit this move you can't help but feel pretty darn good about yourself.
The route might be a bit over-bolted but at least you never really have to worry about taking a big fall.
Protection 8 bolts and chains
By Tristan Higbee
From: Mexico
Jul 12, 2008
| I have personal issues with this climb. I don't like it. The first couple times I tried to redpoint it, holds broke off up high and I peeled. I don't like doing climbs more than once, and I essentially had to do this climb several times before I got it. Lame.
I definitely do NOT think it's worth 4 stars. I think it's good overall, and that the upper headwall is great. The bottom half is dirty and not super solid. Honestly, I'd give it 2.5 stars, but Christian would be mad at me, so I'm giving it 3.
The crux for me was up high -- definitely the long reach from crimps and bad feet to the jug. |
By Clay Allred
From: Moab UT
Jul 31, 2008
| Tristan is just bitter :) This route is killer. I was all smiles flashing this super sick 11b. |
By Darren Knezek
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.11b
| I give it 4 stars for that kick-ass ending. |
By aclimberdude
May 1, 2009
| Cool route for sure. Really fun moves and it seems that it has cleaned up a bit, however still a little dirty, with traffic will clean up more. As for the grade, it is more like 10 something- 10c? Maybe I am getting stronger overnight... |
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