From the 4th bolt on The Fin Arete.
Start on The Fin Arete.
Pitch 1: Branch right, toward the roof. I used a short runner on the bolt protecting the (physical crux) roof despite recieving rope drag. It was OK because the belay is right after you clear the lip.
Pitch 2: Climb straight up one of the most exposed hard slabs you may ever climb. Clip the lead rope through the belay anchor to prevent an FF2 fall on the hanging belay. This is the psychological crux. Belay at a 2-bolt station above a dike.
Pitch 3: Finish up a prow that joins The Fin Arete.
The scariest runout section is directly above the first belay station shown. I suggest a few quickdraws with locking carabiners.
Continue straight up The Fin Arete to a 2-bolt station directly above a large corner/crack. Rappel 80' to a low angle slab. Scramble down to Gargoyle Gully.
Some of the bolts were placed while rappelling.
Nov 14, 2007
This really is good beta - I'll be bringing a short draw with that in mind. This route has a serious rep. Last spring someone mentioned there was a horn in the crux that used to get slung but that's gone now. They said the FA's wanted to go and remedy this and make it safer. Anyone know if that happened.
I aspire to this one.
Nov 14, 2007
Don't think it's happened yet. I'm hoping to get up there with Kim though.
Edit update: Thanks for the photos Kim!
Apr 11, 2009
if the weather holds out this is on the list for tomorrow. No there are still the two bolts at the base of the ramp, none above it though.
From: Alpine, Utah
Sep 10, 2011
Just a little history about Dark Horse to go along with the old scanned pictures. I have climbed it four or five times. Probably twice with Mark Ward, once with Bryce Thatcher, once with Steve Bowen and once with Brandon Pack. I've worn EB's, PA's, Mekan two lace system high tops, and Moccasym's (with soaks, of course). The last time was probably '91/92
Only one bolt was placed on rappel (the first or second bolt of pitch two). That was used during our rappel from the Fin Arete to get a closer look.
|By James Reynolds|
Nov 7, 2013
One of the best routes I ever climbed in LCC. Did it with Lance Bateman about 25 years ago. The sequence over the first roof is absolutely amazing. Consistently good climbing. Heady, out there, awesome. Lance led the first pitch and I led the second and third as a combined pitch. One of the best days of climbing I ever had.