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Dark Horse 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jim Beyer
Page Views: 3,886
Submitted By: Max Schon on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Overview picture of 'Black/Dark Horse.'

Description 

Probably the best sport climb at Wall Street. To the right of 30 Seconds, about 50 yards. Easily recognizable by the dark varnished high quality rock. The start is very chalked. The crux is basically the first few moves off the ground. After the third bolt it gets easier, but the bolts get a little further.


Protection 

QDs



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By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Nov 27, 2006
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This is an excellent route! Difficult crimps and highsteps/high-foot smears down low lead to a bomber rest after the third bolt. Technical footwork and hand sequences continue to the top, maintaining the quality of the route.

BTW- The new "Classic Desert Climbs" guidebook rates this climb 5.12b/c, and calls it Black Horse. Seems to me that the crimp sequences are at least 5.12b, and that solid footwork is a must.

By sean barb
From: winston salem, north carolina,
Nov 4, 2009

a nice crank. got on this thinking it was something else and thinking i had started up an 11-. came away thinking, damn this place is a sandbag.

By Linus Platt
Mar 7, 2010

Jim Beyer did the FA around '92

By Paul Irby
From: moab, ut
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Excellent desert varnish and fun, techy climbing. The bolt spacing keeps things exciting.