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(03) The Franks
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Dark Dreams S 
Entertaining Mike Tyson S 
Sick Man S 

Dark Dreams 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Lance Hadfield, Joey Tefertiller
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on May 14, 2007

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Description 

This route is defined by powerful big moves on better than they look holds.

Start out on some high pockets and make some powerful moves over the starting bulge. Continue up with hard moves (might want to consider stick clipping the second bolt if 12b isn't easy for you, I did) past the second bolt. Find some holds past the next bulge clip the third bolt and get a nice rest. Shakeout and continue up on easy ground using some face holds and jams, and make one more heads up move to the anchors.

Location 

In the middle of the Franks wall, kinda difficult to find. "Between Entertaining Mike Tyson 13b" and a project. An easy way to find it is to find the horizontal growing pine the trail goes over, "Crash Test Dummies 11d" is directly above this, 2 routes to the right is Dark Dreams. Or just look for the attractive pink streaks as mentioned in the Bernard Moret guide, with some imagination they can be found.

Protection 

5 Bolts to anchors, Stick Clip is nice for the start.


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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
May 15, 2007

I always thought this section of the cliff was hard to decipher. There are defintately some lines in here that are described in Moret's guide. This line has some of the best-looking limestone in NM.
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 9, 2013

This route hasn't held up all that well since I last climbed it. The glue reinforced crimp between the first and second bolt is loose, while not required does make a nice intermediate. The jug at the third bolt is loose, the tree stump holding it in place is disintegrating, so the hold won't be there much longer. Beware it is an obvious hold and a significant amount of rock and dirt may come out with it. In addition it doesn't look to have been climbed for a while as the pockets at the start were filled with dirt.