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Darkness at Seven 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Grant & the professor, October 1991
Page Views: 804
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 3, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: 11 Dark at Seven 5.9

Description 

First route you come to after crossing the stream is Darkness at Seven. This is a well protected 5.9 on nice limestone and rounds out the crag nicely. For my personal taste, I think having a range of difficulty at a crag opens it up to more climbers and gives more people in a party a chance to climb at the same crag. So, I'll give DAS two stars for what it does for the climbing here. And it was done well.


Protection 

Half a dozen draws and a rope.


Location 

On the more southward-facing bit of BBDW, around the corner to the right of all of the other routes. Using the normal approach crossing the stream, this route is directly ahead while scrambling up the hill.



Photos of Darkness at Seven Slideshow Add Photo
Dennis Jones on Dark at Seven.
Dennis Jones on Dark at Seven.
Unknown climbers on Dark at Seven, with the rest of Bug Barn on the left side of the photo. The upper half of Squawstruck is visible in the top left corner.
Unknown climbers on Dark at Seven, with the rest o...
Comments on Darkness at Seven Add Comment
Show which comments
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Sep 1, 2007

Could really use a nice landing. Someone, work on this for an Eagle project or something. This climb starts out interesting, then an unfortunate huge rest that kills the coolness factor. But it gets tough again pretty quick. If you have hauled some gumby up with you the face just right of this is a easy/fun TR.

By Lee Jensen
Nov 2, 2009

The anchor consists of an aluminum hanger and a tied off shrub. You might bring along some webbing.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
Apr 16, 2011

This is one of the first routes I climbed in Rock Canyon 8 or 9 years ago. I hated it at the time, but got on it again today and actually really enjoyed it. The big rest halfway up is a bit of a buzzkill, but I still thought the route was fun. Pretty good rock and some neat little holds.

The landing still kind of sucks and the hangers are kind of funky (some of the last remaining aluminium angle hangers in the canyon?), though.

There was a fair amount of webbing around the bush at the anchor and it looked good.

By Tyler McBabe
From: SpanishFork, UT
Jun 1, 2012

Fun Warm up route. It looked like there was another easy fun route to the right of it. Perhaps someone should make a second route there, eh? Eh?

By the professor
Jun 1, 2013

This was the second route added to the crag (the first being Cambrian Gray). FA was by myself and Grant (forgot his last name) in October 1991. The route name is "Darkness at Seven" which was a spoof on "Darkness at Noon" and related to the fact that it got dark fairly early during the FA effort, which took several days of hand drilling using homemade hangers. The route name got corrupted during transmission to guidebook author Bill Ohran.

Tom Caldwell had an electric drill and helped with a couple of holes, but his battery died and we were too lazy to hand drill more belay bolts, hence the tied off sagebrush at the anchor. Route was done ground up, hence choice of cliff with big halfway ledge.

By Tim Moore
May 14, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Interesting little route it's pretty over grown right now at the belay spot with a tree in the way of the first bolt. The belay spot is pretty steep and right in the sun the entire day. In my opinion the route isn't worth it especially the webbing around the bush as the second anchor chain being significantly higher than the other anchor bolt. This definitely needs to be fixed.

By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
4 days ago

To add to the "this needs to be fixed" comments, the anchor on this is pretty bad, as is the bolting in general. I'd avoid until someone fixes this situation.