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 ADVANCED
The Rad Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Azkaban Jam 
Basilisk Fang 
Cadillac Crack 
Chamber of Secrets, The 
Dark Arts 
Dementor, The 
Diagon Alley 
Falling Rein 
Fright of the Phoenix, The 
Get Rad 
Moaning Myrtle 
Rita Skeeter 

Dark Arts 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
FA: George Urioste & Larry DeAngelo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 595
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005
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Focusing on footwork while leading Dark Arts. Phot...

Description 

Thirty feet to the right of the Cadillac Crack is a 15-foot pedestal of white rock leaning against the darkly varnished face. Climb up and left from the top of the pedestal to a narrow catwalk ledge. Move left along the ledge until it is possible to climb up to a small left-facing dihedral. Follow this upward until it joins Cadillac Crack in the alcove below the final chimney and hand crack.


Protection 

Cams from very small to hands, including at least one very small one.



Photos of Dark Arts Slideshow Add Photo
The narrow catwalk traverse to the left.
The narrow catwalk traverse to the left.
Steep face moves off the initial pedestal of Dark Arts.
Steep face moves off the initial pedestal of Dark ...
High up on Dark Arts. Photo by AJ Burch.
High up on Dark Arts. Photo by AJ Burch.
Comments on Dark Arts Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 25, 2004

Larry, perhaps you are too generous in handing out bomb ratings . Note the definition: "This route is a waste of time; it just plain sucked." From the photos, this route does not look like a waste of time. Note that the route poster CAN change routes they submitted, using the "Suggest a Correction" selection. I changed Centerfold from bomb to 1 star, for example. It seems like the majority of obscure routes are 1 star.

By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
Apr 26, 2004

George- you are right, it is a quite good route. I screwed up when I made the entry. Now I better check some of those othere routes too. Dark Arts should be solid 2 star rating at least.

By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Feb 12, 2007

This route is awesome. Four stars out of five. It is well worth the hike to get to it!

The climb has a memorable traverse on a steep face where you must make 5.9 moves high above your first bolt. Higher up you enter a fun chimney which widens as you climb. Exiting the crack is exciting as you stem across the chimney with great exposure below you. Perfect hand jams lead you up a bulge to a nice ledge, where the climb ends.