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Magic Mountain
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Dark and Long 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob Goodwin & Jerry Handren - January 2006
Page Views: 463
Submitted By: Josh Janes on May 7, 2010

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Description 

This is a great crack climb that is up in the same alcove as Saucerful of Secrets. While you're up there, you may as well do this one too, but both my partner and I felt that it was more difficult than Saucerful of Secrets which we thought was grossly over-graded.

Begin in the ledgy area two pitches (300') up Cartwright Corner. Climb a leaning crack which becomes a difficult tube-like feature before pulling a 4' roof at the top. Belay 20' higher in a horizontal crack, or continue way up and move left to a bolted rap station.


Protection 

Double set to #1 Camalot. Wires.



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