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My first barefoot ascent in '71
A mega classic by any standard. Start slightly left of the corner and climb up a series of ramping edges towards the middle of the face. The crux is the last 2 moves.
Progression up Darcy's Wall
D to the I know, it isn't necessary here.
Small gear behind a hollow flake, and me glad for ...
Placing the good ball-nut to protect the crux. Th...
|By Anonymous Coward|
Oct 16, 2005
I came upon this website by accident, but it brought back memories. I was a high school wrestler from Homewood-Flossmoor H. S. in Illinois and visited Devils Lake with a teacher and group. I climbed Darcy in 1969. I remember the thinness of the holds. I had a new (now very old) pair of Royal Robbins climbing boots and was going up from a top anchor point (of course).
I still think of the climb and would like to visit again someday. A lot of year have passed. I live in Houston, Texas now, so I don't when that might be.
Of those attempting the climb that day, I think I was the only one to make it. We camped down by the lake and swam in the early evening. If there was a better way to spend part of one's youth during the summer, I don't know what else it might be.
Best to all who visit Devils Lake. Enjoy the climbing and swimming. Life's too short and enjoy places like this while you can.
|By Paul Huebner|
From: Portage, WI
Aug 18, 2007
If memory serves me right, like a lot of the climbs at the Lake, if you're tall this climb is a lot easier, especially after the delicate traverse from the right to the left.
|By Trad Nanny|
Jun 25, 2010
Not too reachy, just lock off harder!
Gear is poor, got a small brassy in a crack next to the very hollow flake and some vertical nuts in the seam higher up.
I thought it was more "Last Gasp" than "Last Gasp"!
|By Dylan Colon|
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 27, 2011
rating: 5.8 R
Headpointed this last night via headlamp. I put a ball nut and a #0 C3 behind the flake which would have been good if it wasn't so hollow. There is a quite good but blind (while placing) ball nut placement right before the crux though.