Darcy's Wall 5.8
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My first barefoot ascent in '71
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Description A mega classic by any standard. Start slightly left of the corner and climb up a series of ramping edges towards the middle of the face. The crux is the last 2 moves.
Protection top rope
Progression up Darcy's Wall
| D to the I know, it isn't necessary here.
| Small gear behind a hollow flake, and me glad for ...
| Placing the good ball-nut to protect the crux. Th...
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By Anonymous Coward Oct 16, 2005
| Dear Friends: I came upon this website by accident, but it brought back memories. I was a high school wrestler from Homewood-Flossmoor H. S. in Illinois and visited Devils Lake with a teacher and group. I climbed Darcy in 1969. I remember the thinness of the holds. I had a new (now very old) pair of Royal Robbins climbing boots and was going up from a top anchor point (of course). I still think of the climb and would like to visit again someday. A lot of year have passed. I live in Houston, Texas now, so I don't when that might be. Of those attempting the climb that day, I think I was the only one to make it. We camped down by the lake and swam in the early evening. If there was a better way to spend part of one's youth during the summer, I don't know what else it might be. Best to all who visit Devils Lake. Enjoy the climbing and swimming. Life's too short and enjoy places like this while you can. Best, KRS |
By Paul Huebner From: Portage, WI Aug 18, 2007 rating: 5.8
| If memory serves me right, like a lot of the climbs at the Lake, if you're tall this climb is a lot easier, especially after the delicate traverse from the right to the left. |
By Trad Nanny Jun 25, 2010 rating: 5.8
| Not too reachy, just lock off harder! Gear is poor, got a small brassy in a crack next to the very hollow flake and some vertical nuts in the seam higher up. I thought it was more "Last Gasp" than "Last Gasp"! |
By Dylan Colon From: Eugene, OR Jul 27, 2011 rating: 5.8 R
| Headpointed this last night via headlamp. I put a ball nut and a #0 C3 behind the flake which would have been good if it wasn't so hollow. There is a quite good but blind (while placing) ball nut placement right before the crux though. |
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