Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: A. Link 1954
Page Views: 506 total · 4/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jan 7, 2015
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description Suggest change

This timecapsule has good rock and some enjoyable moves at a moderate grade, but there are far more enjoyable climbs at this grade in the area. The climb follows a large right-facing corner to a big ledge, and then uses a hang flake to climb a steep face, before traversing hard right and around a corner. Climbed thusly, the rope drag is insane, but offers a glimpse into the state of the art when this was climbed at V, A1 in 1956. Bring double ropes, or better, go straight up from the hanging flake along a “new” line of bolts to reach an anchor at the top of the cliff (probably in the 5.10 range).

Location Suggest change

Begins up the big right-facing corner a few feet left of Kurze Acht (which has a plaque). The original line follows the path of least resistance in a long traverse across the upper face.

Protection Suggest change

Many bolts. The addition of a direct finish makes the original line somewhat confusing and completely contrived.

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