Daniel Quinn 5.11a/b
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| Type: | Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Roy Suggett |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | May - October |
| Submitted By: | Roy Suggett on Aug 29, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: Bring a plethera of skills for this demanding rout...
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Description This route starts hard and gradually gets easier. As more climbing goes on here the lichen will disapear and the holds will become more positive.
Location This route is on the north side of Author's Tower and as of 8/29/11 is the most northernly route in the "Jungle(s)." It is in what we are calling the "Tower Section." Step out of the tunnel formed by the tower leaning against the cliff and turn right. An unusual move gets you clipping the first bolt and HOPING to clip the second!
Protection Seven quick draws and three runners. Seven bolts lead to shuts.
BETA PHOTO: Body tension and reach capabilities are important....
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BETA PHOTO: North side of Author's Tower, "Daniel Quinn," a sp...
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Awkward start. Once you have clipped the first bol...
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BETA PHOTO: Clipping the second bolt is in your face and awkwa...
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BETA PHOTO: Unusual move to clip first bolt
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By grk10vq
Administrator
Sep 6, 2011
| an insane line!
wear dark pants. |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.11b
| Agree with GRK, this thing is brilliantly insane. Clipping the 2nd bolt will require full commitment to a gnarly swing unless you're at least 6'5". Once that's clipped (thank your rope gun) you'll still be puzzled at the sequence that gets you off the big shelf (hard), only to find yourself even more clueless about how to establish on the higher small shelf (hard, scary). Assuming you get there and clip the 3rd bolt, hang on to your pants for the rest of the wild ride. Holds get bigger but the moves stay long and committing and pumping out is an option to consider.
Bring a stick clip (?) and bag full of your best technical skillz. And some balls. Lots of those. |
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jun 21, 2012
| Luckily I was able to clip the first bolt before doing the move cause I ripped off the start hold! Don't worry though cause I left a good one in its place. Clipping the 2nd and 3rd bolts are problematic. I traversed left but felt like I shouldn't have? |
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