This route starts hard and gradually gets easier. As more climbing goes on here the lichen will disapear and the holds will become more positive.
This route is on the north side of Author's Tower and as of 8/29/11 is the most northernly route in the "Jungle(s)." It is in what we are calling the "Tower Section." Step out of the tunnel formed by the tower leaning against the cliff and turn right. An unusual move gets you clipping the first bolt and HOPING to clip the second!
Seven quick draws and three runners. Seven bolts lead to shuts.
Sep 6, 2011
an insane line!
wear dark pants.
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Agree with GRK, this thing is brilliantly insane. Clipping the 2nd bolt will require full commitment to a gnarly swing unless you're at least 6'5". Once that's clipped (thank your rope gun) you'll still be puzzled at the sequence that gets you off the big shelf (hard), only to find yourself even more clueless about how to establish on the higher small shelf (hard, scary). Assuming you get there and clip the 3rd bolt, hang on to your pants for the rest of the wild ride. Holds get bigger but the moves stay long and committing and pumping out is an option to consider.
Bring a stick clip (?) and bag full of your best technical skillz. And some balls. Lots of those.
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
Jun 21, 2012
Luckily I was able to clip the first bolt before doing the move cause I ripped off the start hold! Don't worry though cause I left a good one in its place. Clipping the 2nd and 3rd bolts are problematic. I traversed left but felt like I shouldn't have?