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Achean Pronouncement
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Dangling Fury 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: P. Zoller, M Schlauch, 1989
Season: Closed Feb-July, Faces N.E.
Page Views: 352
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 18, 2007
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Max Seigal follows 'Dangling Fury' (5.11) on the L...
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  • Description 

    A very cool arete, excellent friction, and a nice corner to grab at. A slightly lichenous bottom makes the climb less than perfect, but it is still quite good.
    The climb is technical, but not terribly hard, so the given grade of 11c might be a little overstated.
    Climb up to a high first bolt (not too hard), and then cast off up and right on positive holds towards the harder climbing on the arete, with great friction. Go for a big jug on a ledge and finish on more delicate but less difficult climbing. The anchor up top is presently solid (just refurbished) but needs a better long term solution.


    Location 

    This route climbs the left side of the N.E. Arete of the Lingum, one of the best looking formations in Skunk Canyon. Beautiful orange and yellow stripes paint the wall. Pass the Argonaut on the Skunk Canyon trail, then cross over to the ledges and scramble up to the base. A great belay seat is just below the bolted line.


    Protection 

    8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Rap to the West at first, then come around the corner lower, if desired.



    Photos of Dangling Fury Slideshow Add Photo
    Max Seigal gets the crux jugs on 'Dangling Fury (5.11)' on skunk Canyon's 'Lingum' formation, in the Flatirons. Photo by Tony Bubb, 11/07.
    Max Seigal gets the crux jugs on 'Dangling Fury (5...
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