Dangling Digit  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  James Weger & Aleida Matthies, April 1988 Submitted By:  Richard Shore on Dec 20, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is the next obvious crack line to the left of Hawkward & Thirteen Cheeps (both 5.10b). This route is approximately 100' left and uphill from Hawk's Nest 5.7.

This obvious finger crack starts off a ledge about 15' up. The traditional start traverses in from the left on the ledge. A much better (and harder) alternative is to do the bouldery direct start of Down Where the Goblins Go (5.10b) past a bolt to gain the crack. A few fun moves up the short and steep finger crack lead to a horizontal. Traverse the horizontal finger crack to the right around the corner and finish up easy face, or finish direct on Down Where the Goblins Go on grainy slab past another bolt. Gear belay or sling a large boulder up top.

Some of the fingerlocks are so good you might start to wonder about the route name...

Protection 

Standard rack. Gear/sling belay. Walk off to climber's left.