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Dangling Chads 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA:  Jeff Scheuerell, Ron Skelton, March 2009
Page Views: 875
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Three great longish routes

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  • Description 

    Choose the fun 5.8 original start or the long continuous 11a direct start. From the shared anchor continue up a right facing corner that narrows down to tips. As the corner ends figure out the crux face climbing moves past the first bolt. Traverse, right, past a second bolt that leads to another thin crack with interesting moves to the anchor. A semi run out third pitch(5.9) gets you to the very interesting forth. Still a bit dirty, interesting features lead to then over what, from below, seems like an improbable roof. A runout though easy final 5.7/8 pitch ends at a cool summit ledge.

    Location 

    Located a ways left of Eagles Eyrie and just right of an unknown 5.11 route shown in the Reid guide

    Protection 

    Pro to a #3 Camalot with extras from .1 to .75 Camalots. Also stoppers with extras in the small to med size are nice. Bring lots of draws if doing the 11a direct start, a full 60m pitch.


    Photos of Dangling Chads Slideshow Add Photo
    Dangling Chads with the obvious, shaded, crux, 2nd...
    Dangling Chads with the obvious, shaded, crux, 2nd...
    The original 5.8 start takes the finger crack thro...
    The original 5.8 start takes the finger crack thro...
    Topo
    BETA PHOTO: Topo

    Comments on Dangling Chads Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Osprey Overhang
    From: ...
    Jan 7, 2012

    FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Ron Skelton, 3/09
    By Austin Archer
    From: Bishop, Ca.
    Sep 14, 2013

    This is a really great climb! Go Richter on the Gnar at the top of the corner bro brah!
    By SirTobyThe3rd
    Mar 19, 2014

    Get down with a 70 or two ropes?
    By Jeff Scheuerell
    Mar 20, 2014

    2 ropes to get down. If you only do P1 you can get down with 1 rope.
    Last time on it P1 and 2 were very clean but with the little traffic most routes at P-Line get some veg may have grown. The first 2 pitches are awesome and doing the whole route although not the same quality as the first 2 is a great little adventure. Would love to hear if you do it. Both starts are good.
    By david s wilson
    Apr 8, 2014

    Really great first two pitches of clean climbing - both solid for the grades. Bring nuts for P2. We were running out of light and stopped at the top of P4, which was already more crispy adventure climbing compared too the first pitches.
    By Jeff Scheuerell
    Apr 8, 2014

    Nice David, about time someone got on that route. And yes the upper pitches do not compare to the first 2... fun adventure above non the less.
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