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Sunshine Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Faith T,S 
Dangles Crack T,TR 
Kimchi S,TR 
Rusty Nail, The 

Dangles Crack 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 564
Submitted By: Chris McNeil on Jan 25, 2012

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Dangles Crack.

Description 

This is one of Cape Ann's best crack climbs! With a awesome layback on overhanging red granite, make your way up to the top. The crux is where the crack runs out. Make a big reach for the top and mantle.


Location 

This crack is in the center of south wall, to the right of an old, bolted, aid traverse Rusty Nail.


Protection 

There is a single bolt next to a flake the is good for a second/third placement for your top anchor. This line could be bouldered bu the crux is the top out mantle move which felt more comfortable on a TR.



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By Tim McGivern
Nov 30, 2012

Great climb! Please don't bolt this too. That little cliff can be protected with pads. This particular crux can be protected with one well placed piece near the top of the crack.