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Routes in Pipeline Wall
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Ame's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black and Tan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Blackbeard’s Gold S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Calypso S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Can't Touch This S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Contortionist S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Crystal Cruise S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crystal Squeeze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dangler S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dolittle Does Something S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dreams of Ambition S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Gold S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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High Motivation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Queen Anne’s Revenge S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Real Tomato Ketchup S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rock Cobbler S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rocksteady S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Shark Skin Leisure Suit S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Skylight Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swashbucklers and Scallywags S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Underground Railroad S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Whip or Will S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Bruce Eriksen, Paul Emrick, 2001. |
| Page Views: | 1,076 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Jul 4, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Open with restrictions - Private Property
Details
The Idarado Mine owns large portions of land, including the access road, that they have been kind enough to maintain partially and allow the public to use. Obey the rules and keep a low profile to ensure continued access.
Description
Presumably named after the action climbers will go through passing the crux roof on the second pitch, Dangler is a fun, mostly moderate outing with a pronounced roof crux.
Pitch 1 starts up easy ground for a couple of bolts and then into a more-awkward-than-hard 5.8 crux bulge before entering more cruiser terrain to a nice belay ledge and the chain anchors.
Pitch 2 tackles the obvious roof above. Consider longer runners on the two bolts under the roof to reduce rope drag above. Pull the fun and wild roof move to gain interesting terrain to a mid-pitch rap anchor. Belay there or continue for another four bolts up fun rock to just below the rim of the lower wall.
Pitch 1 starts up easy ground for a couple of bolts and then into a more-awkward-than-hard 5.8 crux bulge before entering more cruiser terrain to a nice belay ledge and the chain anchors.
Pitch 2 tackles the obvious roof above. Consider longer runners on the two bolts under the roof to reduce rope drag above. Pull the fun and wild roof move to gain interesting terrain to a mid-pitch rap anchor. Belay there or continue for another four bolts up fun rock to just below the rim of the lower wall.
Location
This is the fourth or fifth route you'll encounter from the parking and mine. The hangers are well camouflaged so look closely. The roof on pitch two is obvious.
Protection
8 bolts on the first pitch, 10 or 11 bolts on the second pitch. Chain anchors at the top of both pitches and midway anchor on P2, so you don't need to carry two ropes up. With a 70m rope, we were able to rappel from the highest anchor to the anchor atop pitch 1 and then one more rap to the ground.
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