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Dangler 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bruce Eriksen, Paul Emrick, 2001.
Page Views: 366
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Jul 5, 2011

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Allison well above the crux roof on the second pit...

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Description 

Presumably named after the action climbers will go through passing the crux roof on the second pitch, Dangler is a fun, mostly moderate outing with a pronounced roof crux.

Pitch 1 starts up easy ground for a couple of bolts and then into a more-awkward-than-hard 5.8 crux bulge before entering more cruiser terrain to a nice belay ledge and the chain anchors.

Pitch 2 tackles the obvious roof above. Consider longer runners on the two bolts under the roof to reduce rope drag above. Pull the fun and wild roof move to gain interesting terrain to a mid-pitch rap anchor. Belay there or continue for another four bolts up fun rock to just below the rim of the lower wall.

Location 

This is the fourth or fifth route you'll encounter from the parking and mine. The hangers are well camouflaged so look closely. The roof on pitch two is obvious.

Protection 

8 bolts on the first pitch, 10 or 11 bolts on the second pitch. Chain anchors at the top of both pitches and midway anchor on P2, so you don't need to carry two ropes up. With a 70m rope, we were able to rappel from the highest anchor to the anchor atop pitch 1 and then one more rap to the ground.


Photos of Dangler Slideshow Add Photo
The crux of pitch 1 is this interesting little bul...
The crux of pitch 1 is this interesting little bul...

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