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Dangerous Fiasco on Alexander's Chimney Tuesday
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By Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Oct 27, 2012
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, weird roof since the curtain broke off. Photo by Cody Olsen.

Jeff Kent wrote:
Yeah, just jog on up to the Notch!? The Notch is a LOT further, and Fields is a good deal harder. Have you been on these routes?


So let's just get lazy and go home..Isn't the Notch like a Grade V??..Notch isn't ALOT farther....There was even a trail broken all the way accross Broadway when they were up there and up Lambs Slide. My point is there are no excuses for there actions. Don't want this to turn into anyone spraying what routes they've done. That's not what matters. Rather it's how we treat each other in the mountains. Communication and respect.


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By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Oct 27, 2012
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV

Noah8000 wrote:
So let's just get lazy and go home..Isn't the Notch like a Grade V??..Notch isn't ALOT farther....There was even a trail broken all the way accross Broadway when they were up there and up Lambs Slide. My point is there are no excuses for there actions. Don't want this to turn into anyone spraying what routes they've done. That's not what matters. Rather it's how we treat each other in the mountains. Communication and respect.


I don't climb ice, but can safely say that if someone pulled this crap on me while rock climbing a multi-pitch, even a sport route, I'd be super pissed. I imagine that the danger involved with a situation like this on ice is amplified ten fold, and therefore I'd probably be ten times more pissed & concerned with my safety.

There is no reason that "fitter" or "faster" climbers should ever feel entitled to lap & climb over another party without first communicating their intentions and making sure everyone was OK with that plan. Safety first. That usually goes without saying. Or used to anyhow.

Sounds like Christian was on an established variation and was within his rights to post this. I feel like it's justified. Assuming that everything he has described is accurate.


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By Jeff Kent
From Sedona, Az
Oct 27, 2012

Noah8000 wrote:
So let's just get lazy and go home..Isn't the Notch like a Grade V??..Notch isn't ALOT farther....There was even a trail broken all the way accross Broadway when they were up there and up Lambs Slide. My point is there are no excuses for there actions. Don't want this to turn into anyone spraying what routes they've done. That's not what matters. Rather it's how we treat each other in the mountains. Communication and respect.


No. The Notch is a LOT further. Go do it, then say it's in the same ballpark as Alexanders. Go do Fields and say it's as easy as Alexanders.


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By Jeff Kent
From Sedona, Az
Oct 27, 2012

Noah8000 wrote:
Here we go, "It's in the same ballpark" but easier/less climbing and a little more slogging then AC. It took 15 minutes from the yellow bowl/top of AC to get to base of the Notch a week ago. That doesn't seem LOT farther to me. At least in my definition. To each his own. Never said Fields was easier. It was an option for them as I know both parties that were there that day....


It took you 15 minutes from the TOP of Alexanders to get to the Notch. If you were planning on climbing on the Diagonal Wall, getting to Broadway is a big change in your game plan. Whatever man.


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By Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Oct 27, 2012
Mt. Churchill, University Range

Welcome to Colorado, combat climbing at it's finest. You better be fit, fast and competent or get trundled. LOL!


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By dfrancom
From Anchorage, AK
Oct 27, 2012
Santaquin

I guess all that gym climbing hasn't done Jeff Kent any good. Now he's crying over longer approaches and being out of shape. Hard to please these elitest climbers.


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By Jeff Kent
From Sedona, Az
Oct 27, 2012

dfrancom wrote:
I guess all that gym climbing hasn't done Jeff Kent any good. Now he's crying over longer approaches and being out of shape. Hard to please these elitest climbers.


Easy Diaphragm, easy:) Get yourself out of your little junky bubble in Rock Springs and go climbing. I've been up Longs more times than you can count. Yes, more than ten. Next time I'm at Subway at Little America I'll give you and your sis a shout.


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By George Barnes
From Westminster, CO
Oct 27, 2012
Jones Pk

Did you leave them a note on their car?

Ooooh, too soon? ;)


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By Reinhold Messner
Oct 28, 2012
Me

Jon Zucco wrote:
I don't climb ice, but can safely say that if someone pulled this crap on me while rock climbing a multi-pitch, even a sport route, I'd be super pissed.


Do not ever come to my continent. You will not understand it.


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By Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Oct 28, 2012
Mt. Churchill, University Range

If you are the true YETI then how do you say..."using taped hands is like using condoms, it takes away from the experience" in your native tongue?
I hope I didn't just mouth off to the OG Yeti.


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By phil wortmann
From Colorado Springs, Co.
Oct 28, 2012
Shredded by the Center Route.

Lets keep a cool head here folks. We've probably all experienced both sides of this issue before, I know I have. I've been the slow one, who felt bad about holding up others, and I've been stuck behind slower parties and froze my ass off.

Nowadays I go in with a plan B and plan C just in case, and things are much less stressful. There are plenty of options up there, some easier some harder. Instead of bashing each other, look for opportunities to learn from experiences. Its not about right or wrong. that goes to both parties.


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By kBobby
From Spokane, WA
Oct 28, 2012

Christian Mason wrote:
...We encountered a party of three at the parking lot and arrived at the base around 30-45 minutes before then. ...We were then passed by the same party (that was not moving faster than us)...

Ignoring who was wrong and who was right for a moment, I just want to reiterate Jeff Kent's original response.

If you got to the climb first (by 30 to 45 minutes!), then it is mathematically impossible for the other party to pass you unless they are climbing faster than you.


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By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Oct 28, 2012
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV

Reinhold Messner wrote:
Do not ever come to my continent. You will not understand it.


haha, I've already been, unless you're referring to Antarctica, which you aren't.

I just don't think that shit is safe. Pisses me off that people knowingly endanger others' lives in that way. Competitive climbing is one thing, but Jesus. Get real. Ethics man. And not only that, but morals too.


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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Oct 28, 2012

Reinhold Messner wrote:
Do not ever come to my continent. You will not understand it.


Reinhold, congratulations for joining MP today. You'll probably learn a lot here. You are my hero. Even if you're not the Reinhold Messner.


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By Tits McGee
From Boulder, CO
Oct 29, 2012
How I Send

I am a bit late to this as I was out CLIMBING this weekend.

To the OP, after reading your account I agree that passing another group in an "ice funnel" is dumb, unsafe and very very uncool. However, just because he nailed you with a sick burn, "This is a national park," which I am assuming is the douche bag climber equivalent of "This is a free country," doesn't mean you should post the account on MP. Most of us know that is totally unacceptable to boot up some one's kicked in steps to race them to the route and try to pass them on it.

Man up. Cut their rope, spit in their face and handle your business like a man. If you can handle Alexander's Chimney, you can probably handle some random douche that cuts in line in the alpine.

Sincerely,
Tits McGee
Internet Hardman


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By Kenan
Oct 29, 2012
Shelf Rd

John Marsella wrote:
Ice climbing season in Canada is just around the corner.


Can someone please link me to the original source of this long-running joke?! I've seen it referenced so many times and want so badly to laugh along, but just have no idea where it came from!


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By Tits McGee
From Boulder, CO
Oct 29, 2012
How I Send

Kenan wrote:
Can someone please link me to the original source of this long-running joke?! I've seen it referenced so many times and want so badly to laugh along, but just have no idea where it came from!



It is a retort to any and all of the front range ice climbers whining about how little ice there is in CO. Mainly because of the lack of ice that isn't a 3 minute walk from the car and the ice that has zero approach is getting all "climbed out" by NOOBS.

So if you don't like it...INSERT Quip about Canadian Ice Season HERE.


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By Kenan
Oct 29, 2012
Shelf Rd

Tits McGee wrote:
It is a retort to any and all of the front range ice climbers whining about how little ice there is in CO. Mainly because of the lack of ice that isn't a 3 minute walk from the car and the ice that has zero approach is getting all "climbed out" by NOOBS. So if you don't like it...INSERT Quip about Canadian Ice Season HERE.


Hmm I see. I figured there was a more memorable 'incident' that was the source of the joke. How anticlimatic. ;-)


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Oct 29, 2012
Bocan

I belive this thread is the original source of the ice climbing in Canada threat.

www.mountainproject.com/v/defective-purchase---what-do-you-t>>>


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By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Oct 29, 2012
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV

Scott McMahon wrote:
I belive this thread is the original source of the ice climbing in Canada threat. www.mountainproject.com/v/defective-purchase---what-do-you-t>>>




this is the correct source of the "meme"...

Tits, Internet Hardman is mistaken on this one.


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By Kenan
Oct 29, 2012
Shelf Rd

Scott McMahon wrote:
I belive this thread is the original source of the ice climbing in Canada threat. www.mountainproject.com/v/defective-purchase---what-do-you-t>>>


Ahhh yes, this is it. I vaguely remember the tent fiasco but hadn't read through the whole thread. Amusing and disturbing at the same time... like some kind of low-budget soap opera. Then again, that describes many MP threads.

thanks for the context


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By Tits McGee
From Boulder, CO
Oct 29, 2012
How I Send

Jon Zucco wrote:
this is the correct source of the "meme"... Tits, Internet Hardman is mistaken on this one.


Wow, I that's a first.


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By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Oct 29, 2012
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV

Tits McGee wrote:
Wow, I that's a first.


There's a first time for everything my friend. haha


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By Buff Johnson
Oct 29, 2012
smiley face

Colorado is such a shit show when it comes to ice climbing


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By Ian Stewart
Oct 29, 2012

I have no idea what this climb looks like, nor have I ever even ice climbed before, but if I got to the base of a rock climb and saw another party 20 feet to the left of the climb I'm planning on doing, I wouldn't even think that they're doing the same climb. So, I don't think they were in the bad when they started.

Then, you said they passed you at the first belay? Was this belay still 20 feet off to the left, or was it right on top of them? If the former, I guess I still don't see the problem. If the latter, you didn't have enough courage to speak up then and tell them to back off? Why wait until the day after to post on MP? Even if you were off to the left, you couldn't mention to them "hey, we started on a variation here so you're going to be in our way"?

Regardless of what happened, complaining about it on MP isn't the answer. Anonymous people on the internet isn't the best place to look for validation.


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