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The hardest easiest-looking climb I've ever seen. Originally rated 10d, now listed at 11a in the books, and harder if you're short.
The first bolt is clipped with a reachy undercling (stickclip or find a tall friend if <5'9"). Step right of this bolt, grab the "juggy" crystals and move up to the horizontal crack using footholds under the low overlap that you can't see (1st crux). If you're too short, this move might not be protected because you might not be able to reach the bolt. Traverse left 10' along the horizontal overlap. Up past the rest of the bolts with a distinct high-step/mantle move (crux), with a bolt at your nose for the crux move. After the last bolt, run it out on 5.6 to the anchor (shared with Thunder Toad). Danger Mouse
is the greatest secret agent in the world, and would certainly climb this with no difficulty.
This is an excellent climb for a person looking to try their first 5.10+/11- at TP. The bolts are right where you want them.
The leftmost of two bolted climbs on the west-facing slab just left of Beastie Alley.
3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (shared with Thunder Toad
). Don't bring other gear.
By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 26, 2008
Mark failed to mention about the first crux:
6' people might forget that its also reachy!! I'm 5'8" and was an inch too short to reach the 'thin' holds without jumping. At least I could clip the first bolt (barely).