Leading first pitch of "Danger High Voltage" way b...
Description
Great fun popular 2 pitch mid difficulty crack route that follows along lightning cables at bottom and moves right of the cables for top half. There are a couple ways to climb the first half of the first pitch.
Location
Around the corner (right) from south end of Amphitheater area - middle of the "Big Wall Area".
This is a fun climb, but make sure to bring big pro unless you want to run a few sections out for about 30feet. I tried using my blue Big Bro (#3?) and it was too small. One size bigger would have been perfect.
Agreed. I led this with a #6 Camalot (and no big-bros) and there was only one spot in the last 30-40ft of the 1st pitch that was small enough for it. It was nearly fully expanded and I had to reach in as far as I could to place it (note: I'm 6'2"). This made a really fun climb, rather nerve racking.
In retrospect I could've been a little better with my gear beta...
Once you make it about 35-40 ft up the route the chimney begins, for the first 15-20 ft there are .75 and #2 placements in a crack on the pillar right of the chimney....after that to the pedestal belay a #4 big bro works best. A #6 C4 as mentioned above is really tipped out for protection...
We top roped this two weeks ago and pulled off a huge block near the top. It was about 1ft thick x 3 ft wide and 6 ft tall. The top of the climb is a bit harder now
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