Danger High Voltage 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | Spring, Summer, Fall |
| Submitted By: | Burt Lindquist on Nov 15, 2006 |
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Leading first pitch of "Danger High Voltage" way b...
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Description Great fun popular 2 pitch mid difficulty crack route that follows along lightning cables at bottom and moves right of the cables for top half. There are a couple ways to climb the first half of the first pitch.
Location Around the corner (right) from south end of Amphitheater area - middle of the "Big Wall Area".
Protection All sizes? Offwith protection..
BETA PHOTO: Danger High Voltage (corner).
| View from the top.
| me, almost done with the first pitch. photo: Tayl...
| as you can see the six is even too big at the top,...
| andrew at the top of the second pitch photo: Taylo...
| Matt Johnson on first pitch of "Danger High Voltag...
| Mark Machacek on second pitch of "Danger High Volt...
| Mark and Laura Machacek at the first belay ledge o...
| BETA PHOTO: Danger High Voltage Anchor
| BETA PHOTO: Danger High Voltage Anchor
| Photo of the block that fell on Danger High Voltag...
| Rock in mid air
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| Comments on Danger High Voltage |
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By Travis Hibbard Feb 20, 2007
| Have a big bro or a BIG Cam or your going to be running out the end of the 1st pitch |
By Rob P. From: Bay Area Sep 28, 2008
| This is a fun climb, but make sure to bring big pro unless you want to run a few sections out for about 30feet. I tried using my blue Big Bro (#3?) and it was too small. One size bigger would have been perfect. |
By Ryan Justen From: St. Paul, MN May 24, 2010
| Agreed. I led this with a #6 Camalot (and no big-bros) and there was only one spot in the last 30-40ft of the 1st pitch that was small enough for it. It was nearly fully expanded and I had to reach in as far as I could to place it (note: I'm 6'2"). This made a really fun climb, rather nerve racking. In short, bring BIG-BROS! |
By Travis Hibbard May 28, 2010
| In retrospect I could've been a little better with my gear beta... Once you make it about 35-40 ft up the route the chimney begins, for the first 15-20 ft there are .75 and #2 placements in a crack on the pillar right of the chimney....after that to the pedestal belay a #4 big bro works best. A #6 C4 as mentioned above is really tipped out for protection... |
By DeanG From: Woodbury, MN Jul 5, 2011
| We top roped this two weeks ago and pulled off a huge block near the top. It was about 1ft thick x 3 ft wide and 6 ft tall. The top of the climb is a bit harder now |
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