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Wheeler Gorge
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Wheel, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Danger Boy 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Gould, Agulara, Brannon, 1995
Page Views: 1,668
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Trying to pull the crux on Danger Boy. Photo by Ja...

Description 

Sustained and interesting climbing on excellent rock. One 5.11a move yields to sustained 5.9+ climbing. Much of the climbing involves long reaches (and may be somewhat height-dependent).

Catch your breath on the large ledge at midpoint before tackling the pumpy and exposed headwall above (5.9+).


Protection 

7 bolts to anchors.

The opening moves are awkward and unprotected. Many climbers will benefit from a stick-clip. The crux itself is very well protected. Clipping the 6th bolt is a little spooky. Be careful.



Photos of Danger Boy Slideshow Add Photo
Alexander B pulls the crux of Danger Boy, at Wheeler Gorge.
Alexander B pulls the crux of Danger Boy, at Wheel...
Alexander B on Danger Boy at Wheeler Gorge.
Alexander B on Danger Boy at Wheeler Gorge.
Katie works through the crux of Danger Boy, at Wheeler Gorge.
Katie works through the crux of Danger Boy, at Whe...
Matt Grieger, of Ventura, on Danger Boy (5.11a).
Matt Grieger, of Ventura, on Danger Boy (5.11a).
Marisa Fienup works through the steep final section of Danger Boy, at Wheeler Gorge.
Marisa Fienup works through the steep final sectio...
Heather near the middle of the route
Heather near the middle of the route
Comments on Danger Boy Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 22, 2006

An excellent variation for the non-5.11 leader: climb the first 5 bolts of Stu Boy (extending the fifth bolt) and finish up the crack towards Danger Boy's anchor (either placing a small piece of gear or extending the 7th bolt of Danger Boy). Only 5.9 and good for setting a TR.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 30, 2006

The cold shut anchors for this line are in need of replacement. I was there over christmas and both bolts wobbled in there respective holes. The old SMC hanger above looks alright.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Sep 5, 2007

The anchor atop Danger Boy consists of two solid 1/2" x 5" Rawl-syle expansion bolts with open shuts backed up by an additional expansion bolt equipped with a chain.

The two lower bolts now sport new Fixe Supershuts.

By Joe Dondero
From: Isla Vista, CA
Apr 11, 2010

Was on this route yesterday and noticed that a hold had been pulled off at the crux. It's the left hand pinch used to get to the ledge at the second bolt. It seems like there is still a good hold there despite the hold being removed.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Sep 5, 2011

I also noticed what Joe mentioned. The decisive hold has broken off at the crux. The route now feels 11b/11c to me. Still just a one-move wonder though.

By Alex DeGolia
Mar 10, 2013

Did this on TR after a sketchy traverse over from the top of Stuart's Rig (not recommended - go up the crack right of the roof if you want to end at this anchor). Don't know what it was like prior to a broken hold, but felt like more than one 5.11 move in the bottom 1/3 of the route. After that, all beautiful sloping jugs into a great finger crack.

By Mike Stearns
Apr 15, 2014

To me, this crux (single move) felt harder than Silent Mind.