The first two thirds of this climb are pretty good. Then it gets bad. The crack is full of dirt and moss after that. You have to move left to the tree or the bolts because if you don't the rope runs right across a slopping ledge with a plethora of brick sized rocks. Your partner and anyone else at the bottom is in danger. I would not do this climb again.
This climb is lots of fun for a 5.7 and much easier than its sidekick Mescaline. I agree with James, I good choice for one of your earlier 5.7 leads in Eldo....it is a confidence builder. You gotta be careful of the loose rocks on the higher ledges and if toproping, I suggest setting up a back up anchor to save stress on the tree....it is a small tree.
I think this climb is worth a visit at the very least. It's a perfect 25 meters, and fun to run up as a warm-up for Mescaline. Don't be fooled though, this 5.7 is MUCH easier than its neighbor. "New-school" 5.7 right next to a "Old-school" 5.7, so make sure you check the FA dates.~Wm
Maybe it's getting cleaner with traffic - I didn't notice much loose stuff (and I would have easily been able to clean it up if there hadn't been a crowd at the base). There's a decent rap station at the tree. Pretty soft 5.7 but a lot of fun.
Did it today, and I thought the bottom of the route didn't protect well at all. Before the crux, there is a super bomber #1 Camalot in the top pocket. I didn't like this climb that much. The moves seemed awkward, and it was really a 1 move wonder. Mescaline is much better.
I thought this was a fun pitch with pretty solid rock and abundant gear possibilities. Thought-provoking crux. Once through the crux, the climbing eases considerably (which is unfortunate). Sure, the small ledge above the crux does have some loose scree, but that's Eldo. Just be careful when pulling your rope from the anchors...our rope brought down several small scree missles. It is possible to flip your rope over to the Sister Morphine side of the corner before pulling to minimize the chance of dislodging small rocks. Worth a quick lead if you're in the area.
By Sean Wolf From: Denver, CO Oct 11, 2010 rating: 5.7+5a15V+13MVS 4b
I agree with Dave and the Count. I would give it 2.5, but I don't have that option, so I am rounding up. Definitely worth doing.