Dandelion Stem 5.10a
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| Type: | TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| FA: | Eric Burt and Steve Aho |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Eric Burt on Jan 16, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: Thanks to "Flying T" for the photo. Dandelion Ste...
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Description This route is a direct start variation to the route Dandelion on The Old Woman. Start 15 feet right of the diagonal crack at the base of Dandelion on the face directly below Dandelion's vertical crack. Stemming moves bring you up to holds on the right and eventually a pinch 5 ft to the right of the vertical crack. Traverse left into the vertical crack to join and finish with Dandelion.
Protection TR
BETA PHOTO: The Old Woman - West Face
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| Comments on Dandelion Stem |
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By Eric Burt Feb 3, 2005
| See below for a better picture of the route. See also the related route Dandelion Wine. |
By Murf Feb 3, 2005
| You really think you are the first to do these starts? |
By Eric Burt Feb 3, 2005
| Frankly I didn't expect to be. I mentioned them to both Bob Gaines and Randy Vogel, who didn't know of others who had explicitly claimed them. At least they are documented. If someone else wants to claim them I will be more than happy to change the FA. |
By Eric Burt Feb 3, 2005
| By the way, while Dandelion Stem is just a direct start to Dandelion, Dandelion Wine is a completely different route, with no part in common with Dandelion. |
By The Gray Tradster Feb 3, 2005
| I did it with Tobin Sorensen back in the early/mid 70's. You mean the Orphan doesn't really start that way? |
By The Gray Tradster Feb 4, 2005
| I looked it up this morning and we did do The Orphan. Your variation on Dandilion was done long ago though as well as just about every alternate start within walking distance of HVCG |
By Randy Feb 4, 2005
| In the absence of definitive information of an earlier ascent, the person who reports it first is recorded as the FA. For instance, unless concrete information of an earlier ascent of Dogleg or Double Cross is ever uncovered [being an unambiguous and credible eyewitness, written record or photographic evidence], I am not changing the FA/FFA info for these routes -- despite it being very highly likely that they were done previously. Crags develop in odd patterns, and just because people have been climbing on a rock for decades, doesn't mean that every line of ascent (even if moderate in difficulty) has been climbed. There are many variations and new lines of ascent in HVCG (and the Old Woman) that have only recently been climbed [e.g.: Sexy Grandma].
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