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Dancing With The Devils After Dark 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c A3-4 R

   
Type: Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c A3-4 [details]
FA: June 2006 by Nate ChossMonkey and Bigwally
New Route: Yes
Season: Any Season on the Sunny Southwest Face !!
Page Views: 747
Submitted By: Frank Sanders on Nov 14, 2007
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Description 

The Steepest Face of Devils Tower is the South West Face. It features extremely thin and shallow cracks, only one ledge on the entire face and numerous overhangs.This route is one crack to the right of the CENTENNIAL route. It was first climbed by Nate Chossmonkey and Bigwally in June, 2006. It was a 22 hour effort, from start to finish...and an Excellent Route !!

Pitch 1. A3+/A4- (160 ft.) Nail this crack for a long rope length, until it widens, and allows You a Great Belay, just below the left-most of the twin roofs. We used 40 KnifeBlades (35 tied-off) and a handful of RURPS and BEAKS. The anchors are Very Secure, long Lost Arrows and Baby Angles. One heck of a Fine Pitch.

Pitch 2. A2 (~140 ft.)Nail around the left side of the left-most roof and continue upwards to where a Good Anchor can be set. As the crack is both wider and deeper now, the aiding is Fun and not very demanding.

Pitch 3. A2,5.8 (~140 ft.)Aid a short distance until the crack widens and allows free climbing (5.8) to the Tower Top. This pitch will work Ya !!


Location 

The Steepest Face on Devils Tower is the South West. The entire face features only one ledge, numerous roofs and distinctly tight and shallow cracks. It has long been either Appealing or Appalling, depending on Your Perspective. This route takes the crack just right of CENTENNIAL. Looking at the line from the Tower Trail, You really can't determine if the crack of the 1st Pitch is actually all there, or if it quits. Up close and personal with it, You really still can't tell if or when it might quit. We found that the crack is continuous...but just Barely.
Hike up the Boulder Field and across the South West Shoulder. Finding the Start is the Easy Part.!!!


Protection 

Standard Aid Rack, with 40+ KnifeBlades and some bigger pieces for the last pitch.



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